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Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Tatting, quite an interdisciplinary craft

Where to start? I like to feed my blog with tatting images, patterns, ideas. This time will be a different. I am way to new in this beautiful tatting world and my voice should be not loud, but I was educated with a big default: when I see an injustice I have to react.
Unfortunatelly, in the last 2 months I had to react 3 times. There is some sort of pattern in this.
Normally I am quiet when someone posts his/her own work after a known pattern. I do not have the right to do it. I did it maybe too, when I was learning. I also have to confess the sinn of having copied something I liked very much, saved in my computer with no mention what so ever about the source or the pattern.
Big, big mistake. Now I can say it.
I should have known better from my linguistic studies: copy 1 book, it is theft, copy several ones and compile the information, it is an original study.
I remember myself 2 years back, when I discovered tatting. Dit you not have also this compulsive need of saving everything you saw? Pictures, patterns, links (yes, I had a file with links wich grew and grew and grew until I got smarter: bookmarked the pages, so I ended up with a huuuge list), they all got in folders, and subfolders, and other folders.
It all went like this until I started the blog. Then somehow the bookworm in me remembered some esential things about information: I realized that I cannot just publish anything I want, unless I own the rights of it or if I quote the source or ask for the permission to use the info (pictures included).
Why this intermezzo? Because of the last hapenings. Yes, there are "hapenings" in tatting. A good hapening is the release of a book. A bad hapening is the theft. And unfortunatelly the last one repeated 3 times, with 3 Italian magazines.
For the first one, it is was Tattsabug with her Owl needle pattern, remember? And the turtle from Handyhands. Got over it a bit, they were free patterns, and so often done, they are common territory, the source is often forgotten. Like the 5 or 6 petals rosette.
The second one was a bit different: Jane Eborall was affected, with her beaded ladybird pattern. Edda Guastalla traced some more patterns from this magazine, like the Cherry blossom of Grace (and Grace had the honnesty in 2013 to admit that she was not that original with it, although she was not inspired by any other pattern). All of them still free.
I do not want to mention that it is common sense to verify a bit and to mention the author. Any publisher should know better. Not my speciality.
I even remember that I was so "échauffée" and I said "They copy everything! The next one will be one of the patterns of Marilee Rockley?!)
I am so sorry I said it. It was the case with this magazine, announced for end of April.
Not 1 pattern, but at least 3 patterns of Yarnplayer (Marilee Rockley) I can identify on the cover. For the 4th I am not sure... This time, it is huge, in my eyes. The Carnival earrings I don't know for sure, but 2 of the patterns, the Rotation Pendant  and The Blue tatted necklace (lila on the cover) are protected by copyright, and they can be purchased in the Etsy shop of the pattern designer.
I only hope justice can be done.

The publisher will try to hide behind the nice saying: "We published only the result of the work of our collaborator." But in the shop it is so clearily said: "you may NOT distribute the pattern"...
This makes me sad; beyond sad, actually.
I imagine how it worked: the publisher decides to make a tatting issue, then they contact a tatter and convince her that it is legal to publish the pictures of her work. They OBMIT to tell that publishing the pattern IS ILLEGAL. I am not talking about moral or ethics anymore, we get with this this one in the grown-ups world, folks.
A designer spends time, material to design a piece, to test it, to work it 2-3 times untils it lays perfectly. And he/she spends again time to verify and to prepare the pattern. As we know Marilee, she also makes stunning pictures and tutorials, and gives also the technical explanations for the steps. This IS TIME AND KNOWLEDGE. And then putting all toghether that we have a well done pattern to follow. For some of her pieces we are so blessed: they are offered generously. The other ones are sold. And the one who wants them HAS to BUY them. The pattern for Rotation pendant costs something like 2,55€. Do you think it is an unfair price? Me not.
It would be time that when we put the shuttle in the hands of someone, we should also teach some discipline in getting inspired, teach not to miss-use a pattern, not to steal. That there are some rules to respect.
I would start by sorting the information we choose to save in our PCs or tablets, you name it. It is not that hard to re-name a file we choose to save. And when we publish the picture of our work, we should not forget to mention the source if inspiration. So simple. It takes some seconds. But this shows respect.
I love the tatting groups from FB I am in. I do not want them to get lost, but do not expect that I keep quiet when I see something like this occures.
As I said: I do not know how to write Italian (already known fact), but I can copy the entire Divine Comeny with no mistake. Do I have the right to say that the text belongs to me, only because I know how to put some letters on the paper?

P.S. In the meantime, the picture dissapeared from the FB thread. The comments are still there.



Sunday, April 6, 2014

New bracelet

While making the test with the Range 30 metallic thread from Edda, I made these flowers (see pattern here).
And I had somehow an idea how to use them. I make a lot of tests for patterns, the good ones end in a box, waiting for the idea to settle down. This idea, though, came pretty fast, while making the pictures for the step by step tutorial.

So, starting point:

Used the rough pattern of the bracelet with the white and the silver thread to make the bracelet base. It was actually nice without any add. I changed the ds, because this time the thicker thread was making the wavy line. 



I worked one 2 more flowers (to have the same colour of the seed beads for the petals). I really wanted to chase away the monotny of the brown and cooper tones, so I used the metallig green flower and I made a dark brown one. I decided to lighten it up with yellow. 
Material used: dark brown Brildor 40 (strand of 4), Range 30 metallic thread, seed beads (11), acrylic pearls (4 mm), invisible thread (one has to sew this flower spray...)

The result: 


Not that bad. I do not have any bronze clasps, so it has to wait until tomorrow.
Happy enough and while finishind it, got more ideas. With different colours it will become a very "springy" bracelet. 

Friday, April 4, 2014

Pattern for 1 beaded flower


I received some thread from Edda Guastalla and I had to test it. I was always in the search for the perfect thread for what I want to make. Coton is good, Lizbeth is acceptable (please, Lizbeth fans, do not be offended), my Brildor is perfect but the thread is so thin (120), that I have to make a strand of 3 or 4 to get a decent size to tat with.
Why polyester? Simple.
For jewelry with beads we’d better have a thread wich will not fray during the work, it has to be more resistent as the cotton because the beads can always damage the thread. Polyester can have a very good shine, it will not change colour in time, it is stiffer, the stitches are regular always and it is easier to wash.
On the other hand, I tat a loooot ANKARS style, so cotton is not the thead I need. From the thread from Edda I fell in love in the Penny one. I can do whatever I want, it will not fray, not loose consistency, it will not brake when I have to make and close large, monster size rings. And the colors are just spectacular.
Last days I posted the tests. 
This one, I really like, I made already the white pair, just have to finish it:
 



For the last one, the flower with the metallic thread I made the step by step instructions. Somenone wanted it. It is not an original motiv. It appeared in a Japanese book and you can find it in L’orina’s work (by the way, she tats a lot from these Japanese books). 


Difficulty: very easy, beginner
Material used:

Thread Range 30, brown
48 seed beads (size 15)
Shuttle and ball / 2 shuttles (I would advise, actually, for the daring ones, because of the Catherine Weel join)
Beads threader (sounds impressive, it is not)
Crochet hook
Good light.  Honestly, don't laugh, you need it.

Remarks:

1.       You can use any thread you wish, any beads you want, but you will need to adjust the ds for the outer chains. Just tat the chain until it curves a tiny bit on top of the beaded picot and make the join. This is the amount of ds you will use. Lees ds: the beads will refuse to lay, more ds, you will have an interesting clover effect (you can see it, I rushed with one of the petals). 
2.       I used a 4ds sequence for the ring, because I needed to make clear pictures. With this thread, a 3 ds base is perfect.

bp: beaded picot: 8 seed beads.
Prepare the material


String the seed beads, fill the shuttle. CTM.



Start ring with all the beads in the loop.


4  bp 4 p . Repeat this until you have the 6 beaded picots, finish with 4ds. Close ring, turn work.
Not difficult. 


Start chain. 11 ds join between the 4th and the 5th bead beads of the picot (in the middle) with the ball thread, make sure the shuttle thread stay in the center, so you can have a continuous core thread.
This would be the moment to make the Catherine Wheel join.  
Finish the chain: 11 ds. Make lock join (with the shuttle thread).




This should be the result.



I hope this is helpful. 
Have fun. It is actually fun to make a bunch of them and place them where you need them. 



Saturday, March 1, 2014

Pattern for Emma


Remember this necklace? Emma does it for sure. She was waiting for the pattern and this for a good reason: it could become a bridal necklace.

So Emma, there you go. Have fun with it.
You must be familiar to work with layered rings, with the ring on ring technique. And yes, you must be able to close nicely a 40ds ring.
I advise you to make a test before you tat the real thing without any bead or pearl for 2 reasons. One of them is to see if this count of double stitches works well with your thread and the choice of your pearls. You can always change it, as long as you preserve some proportions. If this is the case, just buzz me, I’m here to assist. The second one, also very important: after you do the element without any bead or pearl, you will have a very clear idea of the beads you need. After you have done 1 test element of the necklace you can estimate thread length, the number of elements you will want to work and amount of pearls and seed beads.

It is a 2 shuttles pattern.

There are 2 possibilities to work this pattern.
11.       Tat with the seed beads on the shuttle (for the middle ring of the element). With a diamond shaped beaded picot you will have to sew in the pearl after. With a 3 beads picot you can use the normal technique of inserting a bead in a ring. .
22.        Tat with no bead on the shuttle thread but using the paper clips… This is the way I will show you.

What you should practice a bit before, would be this sequence: 


Start ring, work 10 – 5


Place the 3 seed beads on the thread, secure with paper clip.
This has this notation in the written pattern: 
··· (paper clip)
Work 1 ds


Place the seed bead and the pearl, secure with paper clip.
This has this notation in the written pattern:
l (paper clip)
Work 1 ds.


Put the secured pearl in a position that is not disturbing. Bring the seed beads in position and make the join. You will have a beaded picot with 3 seed beads and 2 ds in between. This kind of beaded picot has more stability ans it looks nicer. 


Work 5 – 10, close
Bring the pearl and make the join at the base of the ring.

What you need:
2 shuttles, crochet hook, a tool to place the seed beads on the thread, thread of your choice, seed beads, pearls (I used my 3,5 mm beads), 2 paper clips…

Start ring, 20 – 5 – 15, close, DNT.
Start ring below the previous one: 15 – 5 – 10, close, DNT.
Start ring below the previous one:
10 – 5 ··· (paper clip) 1 žl (paper clip) 1 join beaded picot 5 – 10, close ring.
When you have closed the ring bring the pearl at the base of the ring, make the join and, voilà, you have the bead in the middle of it. DNT.
Start ring ON TOP of the previous one : 10 + 5 – 15, close, DNT.
Start ring on top of the previous one: 15 + 5 – 20, close, turn work.
Start chain: 27 (feel free to make it shorter if you prefer it). Turn work.
Ring: 8 + 7 – 1, close, do not turn.
Ring: 1 + 7 – 8, close, turn work.
With the second shuttle start ring 10 ds, close. DNT.  A Josephine knot  has a nicer effect.
 Start chain: 27 (or the amount of ds you choose before).
This would be the pattern. I hope it is clear enough. 


A nice effect is also given by having a seed bead on the thread of the second shuttle, you will can bring it at the base of all the rings. And for the 2 smaller rings between the elements, you could consider place a drop bead or a dagger... Just a thought. I know that I will give it a try, I have the perfect beads for it.



Sunday, February 16, 2014

Clearer instructions...

I always find better the instructions with pictures or diagramms... Especially when is about to explain how some phases should be done...

This is what you need:


The critical phases for the small earrings: inserting the pearl after having done the bell. I make use again of my "magic tool". I have troubles to imagine how I would place my beads without it (my pearls have really tiny holes sometimes, and I use also 15 size seed beads...).

 

 

Work the chain, turn. 


Work the first 10 ds of the trefoil and make the join. 

 

Bring the seed bead close to the base, cut the second thread, make the last ring and hide the thread.

 

 

Done. These are the both sides. 

 
What you need is sew in the end and add the remaining pearl. 


Small floral earrings

I made a small motif, a floral one. It is crazy how hard one can get out of the floral area of the tatted lace.
The first variant was the green one with pearls. You can see for the lower part the main idea for the lace. (Anchor 12 size thread).


I did not like this variant too much, not elegant enough for me, so I did this other vesion, with 20 Lizbeth thread : 


This seemed too simple, so I made some tests with 40 Lizbeth thread. It was supposed to have a hanging pearl at the bottom ring. Interesting, 3D but not my taste. And the 40 Lizbeth is not that good for bigger rings or chains. 


So I decided the final version for the earring to be this one: 

The pattern is on a base of 5 and there are 2 sensitive points: closing the small bell and placing the pearl before you start the chain. 

To close the bell, you make the usual folded join, but since it is so small, you must not rush when you close it, because it can easily get diformed. 

To place the pearl you must bring the second thread trough the upper part of the bell, place the pearl (in my case a pearl and a small Toho seed bead) and secure it with a paper clip, snug. 

Rough written pattern: 
You need: 1 shuttle (do not cut the thread from the ball), fine crochet hook, 2 pearls (3-4mm), 2 seed beads. 
Before you fill the shuttle with enough thread for the bell the chain and the trefoil, place 1 seed bead. It will have to stay on the balls thread. 

Hanging ring: 
Ring 12ds, close, turn.
Bell: 
Ring: 5 - 9 - 5, close, do not turn.
Ring: 5 + 9 - 5, close, do not turn.
Ring: 5 + 9 + (folded join) 5 close carefully to form the bell.
Make a small lock join to join the last ring to the previous one (like this you will avoid the small gap).
Now take the fine fine crochet hook, pass it through the the small hole and bring the second thread (from the ball)in the middle of the bell. Place the pearl and the seed bead and secure them with a paper clip. Pull the excess of thread, snug firmly. Why the second thread? Because like this the hanging ring can be nicely anchored and will be perpendicular to the bell.

Start chain: 20 ds.

Start the trefoil:
Ring: 10 + (to the secured pearl) 5 - 5, close
Ring: 5+10 - 5
Before you start the last ring, bring the seed bead in position and cut the thread, letting enough thread to hide the end while tatting the last ring. Hold firmly the seed bead at the base of the trefoil, make the loop and start the ring. Before you cut the extra thread after hiding if, pull to place the seed bead perfectly.
Ring: 5+ 15, close, cut and hide the ends.

Now you need to place the earring wires and the pearl. I used a needle and my plyers to prepare the hanging pearl.

The necklace is also almost done. I will publish it when I will have done also the pattern.

Not difficult at all.
If you decide to work with 2 colours, better.
Have fun with it. If you encounter difficulties for any part the this pattern, just let me know, I will make a small picture for this phase.
Sweet bitter experience: I had to rush a bit with this pattern, therefore there is no step by step tutorial this time. The very next day there were already parts of it copyed. But I have to give credit: I was asked for the permission to publish the pictures of the finished piece and Giovi gave all the credit for the idea. There are also honnest tatters out there.





Friday, January 31, 2014

Blue... Friday

I know I promised to write a bit more about the use of the bugles, but I wanted to do it with the right pictures and did not have the time. Yet.
I was in fact busy with finishing a necklace, a blue one. It stil waits for the last idea... The big tatting part is done, now the rest should come. And this is actually taking time.
Until I decide what pearls, what clasps, with chain or ribbon, I finished the thread from the shuttles. So I have a lot of small tests all with baby blue thread, with seed beads and bugles.

 

 

All here are tests. I am pretty happy with the flowers. They are actually not interlocked rings, it is simplier than this, but it has a nice effect. 

For the more "art deco" piece, I made a small pattern. It gives actually a nice pendant or earrings. If you skip the diamond beaded picot and join more of these elements, you can have a nice bracelet. I have to explore more... 

Back to the bugles... They are not as scarry as they appear. But you must pay attention: the edges of the holes are sharper as for the seed beads and sometimes they can fray the thread or cut it. Patience is needed. Or just add a seed bead at every end of a bugle bead. It does the job. 


This is the piece. It measures with my thread (like the 40 Lizbeth) 2,5 cm x 1,2 cm 

You need 1 shuttle, enough thread as for 4 small rings, 4 bugle beads and 4 seed beads. 

Fill the shuttle and string the beads as it follows: 

I marked how the beads have to be used while tatting too. Like this some of you can also follow a bit the logic af stringing the beads. Simple rule: the last ones to string are the first ones to use. 


Remember how to make the diamond beaded picot? 3 beads from the loop (or the second shuttle) + 1 bead from the core thread (the first shuttle). 

In the written pattern I used, among the usual symbols: 

|| :  bugles: one comes from the loop, the other one comes from the shuttle thread. 
 : diamond picot, 3 beads from the loop, 1 from the shuttle. 


So... Make a loop with 1 bugle, 3 seed beads, 1 bugle. 
R1: 5 ds - || 8 ds v 8 ds  || - 5ds, close, do not turn. 
R2: 5 ds + 10ds - 5, close. 
R3: Take in the loop 2 bugles and start the ring: 5 ds +  || 16 ds  || - 5ds, close.
R4: 5 ds + 10ds + (folded join) 5ds, close.

My version will have the small pearl in the middle. And for the next ones, 2 cristal drops, more or less like this: