tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-81228534098849723422024-03-13T04:36:52.774+00:00CM-HandmadeCM-Handmade... All about tatting. Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.comBlogger88125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-60389785828867292512017-04-30T11:04:00.000+01:002017-04-30T23:40:36.271+01:00How to empty a shuttle and fall onto a usable piece<b>Emptying my shuttle</b><br />
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After a bigger project there is always some thread left on the shuttle. This is how the flowers of the butterflies pile up in our boxes. In mine come shreads of ideas and some if them are not that bad.<br />
Like this one:<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AECIVH6Ouew/WQWsVSRl4eI/AAAAAAAAB4I/u-DdgJRplZQRyjbjUhN6f1Vwj8HKsIMNQCLcB/s1600/finished.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AECIVH6Ouew/WQWsVSRl4eI/AAAAAAAAB4I/u-DdgJRplZQRyjbjUhN6f1Vwj8HKsIMNQCLcB/s200/finished.png" width="185" /></a></div>
The pattern is more than simple: all rings, increasing the double stitches amount by every petal.<br />
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R1: 4 - 8 - 4, close, do not turn.<br />
R2: 4 + 10 - 5, close, do not turn.<br />
R3: 5 + 12 - 6, close, do not turn.<br />
R4: 6 + 14 - 7, close, do not turn.<br />
R5: 7 + 16 - 8, close, do not turn.<br />
R6: 8 + 18 - 9, close, do not turn.<br />
R7: 9 + 20 - 10, close, leave a decent amount of thread, cut.<br />
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Now, for the finishing part, I used a 4 mm flat pearl with 2 holes and a small 3 mm cristall. You can see also in the picture below the finished tatted thingy.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zKRO8l9e9o0/WQWtcr4-HUI/AAAAAAAAB4U/pTshkzJSc0A7fIEdpMAtxb9PY372oIJ1gCLcB/s1600/beads%2Bneeded.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zKRO8l9e9o0/WQWtcr4-HUI/AAAAAAAAB4U/pTshkzJSc0A7fIEdpMAtxb9PY372oIJ1gCLcB/s200/beads%2Bneeded.png" width="200" /></a></div>
Step 1: place the pearl and make the join to the picot fromt he last ring. Secure the bead by passing one time bach and bring back the thread to the picot.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8Zfv5lKhD_8/WQWtsZwbhsI/AAAAAAAAB4c/Pbg3NXl-GykB4GNfhtqjRCI6mMQvEBX7gCLcB/s1600/step1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8Zfv5lKhD_8/WQWtsZwbhsI/AAAAAAAAB4c/Pbg3NXl-GykB4GNfhtqjRCI6mMQvEBX7gCLcB/s200/step1.png" width="185" /></a></div>
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Step 2: Pass the needle through the join between the R3 and R4. Secur this stitch also if you want.<br />
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Step 3: Pass the needle through the horizontal hole of the pearl to go on the other side. secure this bead.<br />
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This is how your piece should look like.<br />
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Last step: sew the cristal:<br />
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I made some of these to make a bracelet. It is a really fast project and still has some effect.<br />
Where to find the 2 crossed beads? I found mine in bracelets like this one. The pearls shops in Tenerife sell them. I just love these beads. Pitty that Toho and Co do not produce them.<br />
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Have fun with the pattern. For any question, just drop me a message.<br />
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P.S. This is worked with Penny 30 Bordeaux from Edda.<br />
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P.P.S.: The result:<br />
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<br />Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com52tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-67005846820690958182016-12-11T12:16:00.001+00:002016-12-11T12:16:55.898+00:00Bauble patternI posted some time ago a Christmas bauble and I promissed to share the pattern.<br />
It is not dificult to do... except you want to do it the way I did it: with 3 shuttles and using padding tatting.<br />
The pattern is just rings and chains and at the first glance, one can say: 1 shuttle and a ball, 2 different colours would do it. But if you search for neat work, no knots to change directions and smooth finish, then I would still chose the 3 shuttles solution. Trust me, I have tried the easy way, I was not happy with the result: the elements were twisting and the lace did not bend but just fold at the point where the knot was done. This is, by the way, what I disliked with needle tatting: pictures are nice, but the actual lace not that much.<br />
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Why 2 shuttles and the ball would not do it? Because you will want to have the possibility to switch 2 shuttles with green thread without making knots or "jumps" between the upper and the lower side of the ds. Which will lead to a not nice finish.<br />
Why padding? Well the same reason. See that lower red ring? With 2 shuttles you cannot make it look really nice. And by padding, you can nicely hide that red thread and use it only when you want it. Happy GR8 owners....<br />
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So 3 shuttles for me. Padding. For the ones needing to refresh the technique you can refer to the video of Karen Cabrera <a href="https://www.google.es/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjVyqrvjezQAhVCthQKHTfNDREQtwIIIDAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DHrQSZZYvJcg&usg=AFQjCNHO30Z2LeVmPCvosyYMZASfY820QA&sig2=xTGNh82kS0VltMYY7SGfHQ" target="_blank">here</a> or to a <a href="http://www.georgiaseitz.com/2003/encap/encap.html" target="_blank">tutorial </a>from Georgia Seitz. Both perfect to learn this technique.<br />
All the chains have 20 ds, and are done with padding, no turn work.<br />
You will use the upper green shuttle for the rings and the lower green shuttle for the padding.<br />
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Prepare the 3 stars. Mine were 5-5-5-5 or 5 -10 - 5 for the petals with no joins.<br />
Make with the red thread a 10 ds ring. Snug, and keep it.<br />
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Pattern:<br />
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Green shuttle: </div>
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R1: 10 - 5 - 5</div>
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R2: 5 + 8 + (to 1 red star) 8 - 5. </div>
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R3: 5 + 5 - 10. </div>
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Do not turn </div>
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Place at the base of the trefoil the small red ring (R4) and prepare for padding. Hold both threads together. Make 20 unflipped ds. Snug well, you can also pull a bit the thread thread. </div>
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Red shuttle: R5: 10 ds. Close ring. Do not turn work. </div>
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Upper green shuttle: R6 10 + 8 - 2 close. </div>
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R7: 2 + 8 - 10 close. </div>
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Lower green shuttle: padded chain 20 ds. Snug well. </div>
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Red shuttle: R8: 10 ds. </div>
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Upper green shuttle: R9: 10 + 8 - 2. </div>
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R10: 2 + 8 - 10. Do not turn work. </div>
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Chain 20 ds. padded. </div>
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Upper green shuttle: R11: 9 + - 2- 9. Turn work. </div>
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Red shuttle: R12: 10 - 10. Turn work, prepare for padding. </div>
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Chain: 20 ds. </div>
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Repeat to get to the upper trefoil. </div>
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Work trefoil and join to the star. </div>
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Do not turn work. Chain padding: 20 ds. Shug, turn work. </div>
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Red shuttle: R13: 8 + 5 - 3. Do not turn work. </div>
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Red shuttle: R14: 3 + 5 - 8. Turn work. </div>
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Chain, padding 20 ds. Repeat 2 more times. </div>
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Join the last eement to the first one. </div>
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Cut and hide ends. </div>
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Now you can finish your baubles as you like. I made them this way: </div>
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They are not that bad and all the trouble with the 3 shuttles is really worth doing. </div>
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If you get inspired to work them and if you get stuck, just give me sign. </div>
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If you find an easier way to do it, please let me know. </div>
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Needle tatters could trick the encapsulating by using 2 threads in the needle... and then switch the needle from 1 thread to the other. Sorry, hard to find a decent equivalent for a 3 shuttle pattern to be worked with the needle. Of course, you can ease your life and give up the 2 colours and use 2 shuttles and red beads instead... </div>
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Have fun. </div>
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Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-16497564117711500842016-06-30T08:51:00.000+01:002017-05-06T17:40:54.015+01:00Pulled loop join<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It sounds long and scarry... But it is a join done with the shuttle thread, just a lok join, since all rings are worked with only one shuttle. In the old patterns, before Ann Orr taught us to work a split chain (1916) you find this chain of rings with some bare thread behind. Today we would work this with 2 shuttles and make split rings. </div>
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But going back to the roots, can help. You love beads? Any bare thread can carry beads and this piece is no exception. Nina Libin is also using is. I also like the pulled loop join because it allows you to pass at the top of a ring with a neat effect and, since it is a single shuttle technique witl the beads on it, this makes the project really "portable".</div>
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In this piece from the pìcture there are 2 little technical details: the pulled loop join and the horizontal ring. I call it collar ring because of the appearance. Have no idea if it has a name, this little fellow. <a href="https://scontent-mad1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/s960x960/10750214_784506578258936_4099541643644329943_o.jpg?oh=52ccb8cf1a4c8ba0fe5830ee15ced482&oe=596F3F63" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-mad1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/s960x960/10750214_784506578258936_4099541643644329943_o.jpg?oh=52ccb8cf1a4c8ba0fe5830ee15ced482&oe=596F3F63" width="297" /></a></div>
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Thred the desired beads on the shuttle thread and work trefoil. My case 5-5-5-5 (I worked with Sunlight 40 and 3 mm coral beads). Go back to the middle ring of the trefoil (make a join), take 1 bead and place it behind your work, pull the thread and make the lock join carefully. Done.<br />
Help for it here (Karen Cabrera, of course):<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/McZ1LZBjqRY/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/McZ1LZBjqRY?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
Start the new trefoil, repeat the whole sequence. Turn the work 90 degrees, start a ring wraping the thread around the work between the 2 trefoils and work a 10 ds ring. Close this ring in such a way that it closes on the back side of the work, bring the next bead, make the pulled loop join.<br />
I used this for a bracelet and I also made another round and used also the outer picots.Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-14378001411634058172016-05-28T09:10:00.000+01:002016-05-28T14:00:46.715+01:00Assymetrical earrings <br />
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Too long... waited too long to make the pattern for the earrings. For some I just gave the rough written pattern over Facebook. There you have it:<br />
One shuttle pattern.<br />
String some seed beads in the shuttle. No turn work what so ever. 20 minutes tat. Promise.<br />
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Start<br />
R1: 10 - 10.<br />
R2: 10 + 5 - 10<br />
R3: 15 + 5 - 20<br />
R4: 20 + 5 - 25<br />
R5: 25 + 38 - 2 (or how much you want, but keep the 2).<br />
Rb: take a bead in the loop for the ring. work 2 + o large ring) 6 - 2 close. The bead stays at the base of the ring. Continue until you have the nice curve needed for your bead.<br />
As you see, 4 rings are also ok.<br />
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You can think avout working the last ring as a SCMR (2 threads).<br />
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<br />
The rest is ading the rest of the beads by sewing them. I added first the large one, then went back, added the light blue ones, came back and added the small seed bead... went back throught the large bead, added the bead in the R1. Secured thread. Done.<br />
<br />
Have fun.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
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<br />Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com27tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-62512852445283059872016-04-20T20:39:00.000+01:002016-04-20T20:39:15.254+01:00Pattern WaveIt was time maybe to let it go. Since 2012 I saw a lot of versions not only of the finished, but also of the pattern itself, in so many forms. I like to think that a lot of technical questions will be answered by the pattern itself. I never expected this pattern to raise so much interest and I thank everyone on who once had a look at the original before I made it public.<br />
The pattern is simple, so simple that is is boring. But do not rush while working it. Simple things can punish pretty hard the impatient hand.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jm5EhU61i8U/VxfYU5kDa8I/AAAAAAAABcI/MHjYmTGcM9Q89wyW7VyckMLiJ0xnhUxswCLcB/s1600/20140627_115712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jm5EhU61i8U/VxfYU5kDa8I/AAAAAAAABcI/MHjYmTGcM9Q89wyW7VyckMLiJ0xnhUxswCLcB/s320/20140627_115712.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
To the English version: <a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B93MXvBDGH8GUWFObk5UaldxQ2s" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
For the French one: <a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B93MXvBDGH8GOUxQY0RFMUVacms" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
Instructions for the needle: <a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B93MXvBDGH8GT2RrLXduejZVMmc" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
<br />
Just enjoy. I decided to place it also in the blog, at least it is all in one place.<br />
<br />
Happy tatting.<br />
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<a href="https://scontent-mad1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xla1/v/t1.0-9/10387246_750946361614958_5341883170805040684_n.jpg?oh=4e070ff177b5d1a30d571803af62fcc1&oe=57A45C4B" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://scontent-mad1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xla1/v/t1.0-9/10387246_750946361614958_5341883170805040684_n.jpg?oh=4e070ff177b5d1a30d571803af62fcc1&oe=57A45C4B" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-1375224747205562062015-12-13T19:15:00.003+00:002015-12-13T19:15:52.027+00:00Bauble feverI do have a huge shortage in time. I do not have the time to make a tatting tutorial the way I like it.<br />
Lately I made some baubles. But one of the patterns used especially is pretty versatile.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_SsYaFPFmVI/Vm3BBdDnomI/AAAAAAAABbA/xQTCv53Q3zg/s1600/bauble%2B1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="176" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_SsYaFPFmVI/Vm3BBdDnomI/AAAAAAAABbA/xQTCv53Q3zg/s200/bauble%2B1.png" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
I will post the picture and the written pattern. It is a very easy one. No idea, I may have been seen something similar. Anyway, did not copy voluntarily anyone. If so, Please let me know.<br />
You can work it with a shuttle and a ball, CTM, of course. I prefer though the 2 colours version. No trick, simple sequence ring, chain, ring.<br />
I worked this patterns with a Penny 30 thread and Finca Metallic thread (really fine one). Yes, I am not afraid to mix the threads sizes, the effect is always rewarding. So, please adjust your ds accordingly. All the picots are very small picots.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VC-lCSeDRTc/Vm3BNO72PFI/AAAAAAAABbY/7Gn7iIABVwY/s1600/stripe.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VC-lCSeDRTc/Vm3BNO72PFI/AAAAAAAABbY/7Gn7iIABVwY/s320/stripe.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
The only difficult step is the start: with a chain with a paperclip.<br />
<br />
Place the paperclip, start chain: 10 - 19 - 1, snug, turn work.<br />
* Ring 1: 10 + (remove paper clip, make join) 9 - 1, close, do not turn work.<br />
R2: 1 + 9 -10, close, turn work.<br />
Ch: 1 + 18 -1 snug, turn work.<br />
Work trefoil:<br />
R: 10 + 6 - 4, close, dnt<br />
R: 4 + 10 - 10 - 4, close, do not turn<br />
R: 4 + 6 - 10 close turn work.<br />
Ch: 1 + 18 - 1, snug, turn work.<br />
R: 10 + 9 - 1, close, do not turn work.<br />
R: 1 + 9 - 10, close, turn work.<br />
Ch: 1 + 19 - 10, make lock join to the last ring.<br />
Continue Ch: 10 - 19 + 1, snug, turn work. *<br />
Repeat from * to *.<br />
<br />
When you got the desired length, cut and work the second half, joining chains at the remaining picot.<br />
You will get this. Bookmark, bracelet, also good.<br />
<br />
For a 3 cm diameter baulbe: 4 elements were enough. I closed first the lower part with a ring (I think there were 6 or 8 ds between the picots from the trefoil). To close the motif on the bauble: just passed a thread through the picots and snug.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e3d9XMDqUZ8/Vm3BCQLBVlI/AAAAAAAABbI/iwPYAqnhifA/s1600/bauble%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e3d9XMDqUZ8/Vm3BCQLBVlI/AAAAAAAABbI/iwPYAqnhifA/s320/bauble%2B2.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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For a 6 cm diameter, I used 5 elements.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QOTIwLICbWw/Vm3BCeypXHI/AAAAAAAABbM/-KCYeMhfb40/s1600/bauble%2B1%2Bwhite.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QOTIwLICbWw/Vm3BCeypXHI/AAAAAAAABbM/-KCYeMhfb40/s320/bauble%2B1%2Bwhite.png" width="312" /></a> </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7rlYoogJK2E/Vm3CricigbI/AAAAAAAABbk/zF_9h9p8g9o/s1600/bauble%2B2%2Bwhite.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7rlYoogJK2E/Vm3CricigbI/AAAAAAAABbk/zF_9h9p8g9o/s320/bauble%2B2%2Bwhite.png" width="305" /></a></div>
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<br />
For a 8 cm diameter I placed the lace vertically, and fasten both ends. I made also 2 flowers and sewed the elements together.<br />
Why did I say that the pattern is versatile? well... If you join the picots with a flower or a ring and if you stiffen the lace with an inflated balloon, you will get a lace bauble. I tested it, it works. If you work 4 elements, you will get a nice cube.<br />
If you work only a half of the stripe with 5 or 6 elements and join the upper picots of the trefoils with a flower, you will get a star or a snowflake .<br />
Have fun. I know I did.<br />
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<br />Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-68983711399520529902015-11-12T01:21:00.001+00:002015-11-12T01:26:13.244+00:00Fringe... sort ofCorina tried to get in the snowflake mood. Toke a pattern tried to work it. Then she finds a lost thread of gold metallic Finca thread and the pattern gets forgotten. It is again one of the "Lets start the party" moments.<br />
It did this:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4sLb0IuV-hc/VkPkNzqdhtI/AAAAAAAABZs/MtiMWeV9RDU/s1600/2015-11-11_21.58.46%255B1%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="199" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4sLb0IuV-hc/VkPkNzqdhtI/AAAAAAAABZs/MtiMWeV9RDU/s200/2015-11-11_21.58.46%255B1%255D.jpg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U2I3HTc3P_E/VkPkOfZj1LI/AAAAAAAABZw/y7L57T2UOGM/s1600/1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U2I3HTc3P_E/VkPkOfZj1LI/AAAAAAAABZw/y7L57T2UOGM/s200/1.JPG" width="111" /></a></div>
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See those threads? No picots cut at the end. Easy to see that the golden thread stay on the core thread. I do not know if this is already dowe and how. I am sure someone did it, but I did not see it yet. Please, if you identify a known technique, let me know, to give the right credits. </div>
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My first test was done with simple macramé knots done on the core thread. Jane Eborall inspired me to try to use picots, when she mentionned the feelers for critters. And yes, I rushed to look at her superbe tutorials. Did not find yet this one. </div>
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Main idea: who said that we can tat only beads into the lace??</div>
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What you need: 1 shuttle and a ball (CTM). A thread of a second colour.</div>
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Start by working chain on your shuttle with very long picots. As many as you estimate you will use. (my case: 7 x 6). The more even, te better. Cut those picots at the upper part, distribute them and just fill the shuttle. Treat them as beads. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jaUEwGZIMoI/VkPkO1rR2YI/AAAAAAAABZ4/okuf1XMe-io/s1600/2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jaUEwGZIMoI/VkPkO1rR2YI/AAAAAAAABZ4/okuf1XMe-io/s200/2.JPG" width="111" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ErlOsvv1pSk/VkPkYtJxQTI/AAAAAAAABaM/DwpEflq4EBs/s1600/2a.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ErlOsvv1pSk/VkPkYtJxQTI/AAAAAAAABaM/DwpEflq4EBs/s200/2a.JPG" width="111" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Yb9Wi5CsQ6s/VkPkYkr6_FI/AAAAAAAABaQ/dyLwKELnvjs/s1600/3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Yb9Wi5CsQ6s/VkPkYkr6_FI/AAAAAAAABaQ/dyLwKELnvjs/s200/3.JPG" width="111" /></a></div>
Start tatting. When the moment comes (my sequence was 5 - 2 7 of those metallic thread fringes sep. by 1 ds, picot, 5, close) bring one of the knots with fringes in position then work the ds. <br />
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A bit uncomfortable at first but after a while, it gets better. It is sooo simple!!!<br />
Keep only in mind that you will have to count this fringe as a ds... So you might need to re-think a bit before the pattern.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-in3vWWWexdU/VkPkbk1-2eI/AAAAAAAABak/H2l1wv6ckSs/s1600/end.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-in3vWWWexdU/VkPkbk1-2eI/AAAAAAAABak/H2l1wv6ckSs/s320/end.JPG" width="179" /></a></div>
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This little baby was done in less than 30 mins. Trim those fringes to give them a shape. </div>
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I see this quite interesting for an aura for an angel, my husband suggested the winks for an angel, the snow as a border for a Christmas tree, a garland. </div>
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Imagine a Josephine chain with fringes which get gradually longer... got your attention a bit?</div>
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Happy tatting. </div>
<br />Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-59489551653832954342015-10-31T09:59:00.000+00:002015-10-31T09:59:37.616+00:00Necklace "Bow" pattern<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD"><b>Necklace
“Bows”pattern</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">I played
with 2 shuttles and some self closing mock rings, love it. Then I wanted to
climb to the top of the SCMR with both threads and this is how the beads got in
play. Made some elements, drunk some coffee, watched TV and then it hit me.
Maybe you know it: take a small break, think that you are watching TV (tennis
for me) but the brain is still tatting. Then the finger starts to draw in the
air (this amuses my husband always) the the pattern starts to build itself. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MBsNRQHHWXo/VjSM5sivPXI/AAAAAAAABYE/f9cx_nBjRt4/s1600/new%2Bone.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="111" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MBsNRQHHWXo/VjSM5sivPXI/AAAAAAAABYE/f9cx_nBjRt4/s200/new%2Bone.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span lang="ES-TRAD"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">2
shuttles, CTM, fine crochet hook, 5 mm rice mother of pearl beads. This is all you need. Skills
required: nothing special, only not the be afraid to work stacked rings. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">It gave
this at first. It curves by it self a bit. First try: very fine black thread,
the <a href="http://www.guastallascarpe.com/bs/categoria-prodotto/filati/" target="_blank">Penny 40</a> I received from <a href="https://www.facebook.com/edda.guastalla?fref=ts" target="_blank">Edda </a>as a sample. By the way, she is a great tatter and I simply love her tatting solutions. </span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mR-pjMj2i0M/VjSM55WpahI/AAAAAAAABYQ/TTGNHqVtaJ4/s1600/new%2Bone%2B2%2Bcolours.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mR-pjMj2i0M/VjSM55WpahI/AAAAAAAABYQ/TTGNHqVtaJ4/s320/new%2Bone%2B2%2Bcolours.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="ES-TRAD"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">The white one is worked with Penny 30 and Range 40 and it curves
slightly more, some adjustments might be necessary if you work with different
threads than mine. I would do it to the SCMR the upper part (instead of a 5-5 I would work 2-3 or 2-3). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">The
pattern I will give you now is for 2 shuttles (Sh1: white, Sh2: silver), two
colours. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Start
with R: 20, close, do not turn. This is will be the clasp support one. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid black 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: text1; mso-border-themecolor: text1; mso-border-themecolor: text1; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 230.3pt;" valign="top" width="307">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Sh1: R: 10 – 10,
close, do not turn. Let Sh1 hang behind the ring, switch shuttles. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr>
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</td>
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<span lang="ES-TRAD">Sh2: 10 + 5 –
15, close do not turn work. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Prepare to work
the “collar ring” with Sh2. Turn the work 90 deg. to the left. Wrap the thread
around the work and work ring: 15. Bring carefuly the end of this ring around
the work and close. Do not rush if you want a nice, even finish. The thread
from Sh2 must be now back where the collar ring startet. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
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<tr style="height: 31.5pt; mso-yfti-irow: 5;">
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<br /></div>
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<td rowspan="3" style="border-bottom: solid black 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid black 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 31.5pt; mso-border-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: text1; mso-border-left-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: text1; mso-border-right-themecolor: text1; mso-border-themecolor: text1; mso-border-top-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-top-themecolor: text1; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 230.3pt;" valign="top" width="307">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Flip work 90
deg. to the right. Start SCMR (white: active thread, silver core thread). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">15 + 5 – 5. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Add the bead to
the loop pass the shuttle through the loop, close SCMR. Turn work. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Please take care
about the beads you will use, the sharp edged may cause some troubles. You
can avoid them by chosing fire treated
beads or by adding fire treated rocailles before and after your bead.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
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<td style="border-bottom: solid black 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid black 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: text1; mso-border-left-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: text1; mso-border-right-themecolor: text1; mso-border-themecolor: text1; mso-border-top-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-top-themecolor: text1; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 230.3pt;" valign="top" width="307">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Work chain: 20.
You can also change this to 15 or a bit more. Snug, turn work. You can see now the back side of the work<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid black 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid black 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: text1; mso-border-left-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: text1; mso-border-right-themecolor: text1; mso-border-themecolor: text1; mso-border-top-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-top-themecolor: text1; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 230.3pt;" valign="top" width="307">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">Take Sh1: work
ring: 10 + 10. Do not turn. Work the first ring from this series. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">I kind of like this bow effect the rings create, worked with 2 colours it is more obvious. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">As I said, different threads and different beads, different effect. Play a bit with the pattern until you are happy with the result. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="ES-TRAD">I hope that I gave you a reason to grab the shuttles and that you will enjoy trying to work this pattern. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Happy tatting. </div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-84560455518737782862015-09-06T15:57:00.001+01:002015-09-06T15:57:03.921+01:00Rosette with beads, funny beadsThis is about the small black rosette I published some days ago... Love to tease you, love to make you find solutions. This helps a lot to get out a bit outside the box.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://scontent-mad1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11058669_942939232415669_3092240128222037283_n.jpg?oh=eed9e60f764fab4a48cb3e8a473ea412&oe=56795C65" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://scontent-mad1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11058669_942939232415669_3092240128222037283_n.jpg?oh=eed9e60f764fab4a48cb3e8a473ea412&oe=56795C65" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
One box we are stuck in sometimes is the way to add the beads. They must come from the thread from the hand, from the shuttle or the needle or is has to stay on a picot. Really?? Not this time.<br />
I tricked it. I am not the first one and there are more than 1 way to have this effect but the simpliest one, at least for me, will be described today.<br />
This rosette has 2 rounds. The inner one as pretty easy.<br />
<br />
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<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-themecolor: text1; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span lang="ES"><b>Image</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid black 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: text1; mso-border-themecolor: text1; mso-border-themecolor: text1; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 230.3pt;" valign="top" width="307">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<span lang="ES"><b>Steps and remarks</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES"> </span><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jlrouEEEh7I/VexLKQutOuI/AAAAAAAABWE/xaI6Ok8r3jE/s1600/Material.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jlrouEEEh7I/VexLKQutOuI/AAAAAAAABWE/xaI6Ok8r3jE/s320/Material.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid black 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid black 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: text1; mso-border-left-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: text1; mso-border-right-themecolor: text1; mso-border-themecolor: text1; mso-border-top-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-top-themecolor: text1; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 230.3pt;" valign="top" width="307">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES"> What you need: </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES">Your thread. In my case, Penny 20 this time. 11.0 rocailles, a very fine crochet hook and a beading needle. Or any needle which allows you to pass 2 times through a 11.0 rocaille. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES">String on the shuttle the beads you need. you must think: 8 beads for each petal. In my case, I needed 7 petals... 56 beads. Just put enough beads on the shuttle to be on the safe side. I was sure I will get a 6 petal flower... I had to unwind the shuttle and add the missing beads... </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES">Prepare to work the inner round. Take 11 beads on the hand and work ring. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES"><br /></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ayfB4MVlJ2A/VexLLqFIZ3I/AAAAAAAABWc/8hK0TRXkXsQ/s1600/first%2Bring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ayfB4MVlJ2A/VexLLqFIZ3I/AAAAAAAABWc/8hK0TRXkXsQ/s320/first%2Bring.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid black 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid black 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: text1; mso-border-left-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: text1; mso-border-right-themecolor: text1; mso-border-themecolor: text1; mso-border-top-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-top-themecolor: text1; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 230.3pt;" valign="top" width="307">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES"> Work 8 ds 4 bp 4 ds 3bp (2 from the hand, 1 from the shuttle) 4 ds 4bp 8 ds, close ring. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES">4bp: 4 beads picot</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES">3bp: 3 beads picot</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES">Do not work these beaded picots too tight, you will want to have some thread for the next joins. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES"><br /></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
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</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid black 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid black 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: text1; mso-border-left-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: text1; mso-border-right-themecolor: text1; mso-border-themecolor: text1; mso-border-top-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-top-themecolor: text1; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 230.3pt;" valign="top" width="307">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES"> Petal 2 until 6: </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES">take 7 bead on the hand. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="ES">Work 8ds join to the beaded picot by separating the beads (3 up, 1 down) 4 ds 3bp 4 ds 4bd 8 ds, close ring. </span></div>
</td>
</tr>
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<td style="border-top: none; border: solid black 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-themecolor: text1; mso-border-themecolor: text1; mso-border-top-alt: solid black .5pt; mso-border-top-themecolor: text1; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 230.3pt;" valign="top" width="307">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
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<span lang="ES"> Intermediate phase. </span></div>
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<span lang="ES">For the last petal taker only 3 beads on the hand. You will make the last join as a folded join. Do not let yourself impressed by the beads. </span></div>
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<span lang="ES">Finished first round. Cute enough actually like this. </span></div>
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<span lang="ES"> We attack the second round now. I placed the small rocailles on top the the picots with 3 beads... This is where I want them to be. </span></div>
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<span lang="ES">Therefore, I let my shuttle away and I use a needle. Remember? The needle supposed to be able to pass through the 11.0 rocaille 2 times... But please keep in mind: the bead will have 1 thread in the hole... when you pass with the needle you will have in that little hole 1 time the diameter of the needle and 3 times the diameter of the thread. When I will explain how it will be done, you will see. </span></div>
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<span lang="ES">Anyway, because of this simple math and some tests I had to use for this round Penny 30, a thinner thread. </span></div>
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The needle will be used as a shuttle. </div>
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<span lang="ES"> Thread the needle, let enough thread on the needle. It will be you core thread for the outer round. Don't make economy on it... you have some joins too. Do not cut the thread. You will work with the ball too. </span></div>
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<span lang="ES">Take 1 bead, keep the rosette in place and bead and pass the needle through the 2 beads on top. </span></div>
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<span lang="ES"> Now pass the needle back through the bead. Fasten.</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jrd2U0vBXGY/VexLKQL_4vI/AAAAAAAABXo/xb0Hz3nSGUo/s1600/first%2Bbead%2Badded.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jrd2U0vBXGY/VexLKQL_4vI/AAAAAAAABXo/xb0Hz3nSGUo/s320/first%2Bbead%2Badded.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="ES"> Done. Not hard, no science involved.</span></div>
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<span lang="ES">Now you can start to work the chain. Needle tatters will be disappointed: I am tatting with flipped ds. </span></div>
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<span lang="ES"> I use for this the Riego tatting method. (Please correct me if I am wrong.) </span></div>
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<span lang="ES"><br /></span></div>
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<b>First movement / first hs</b></div>
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<span lang="ES">Wrap the thread on your left hand and prepare to work chain. </span></div>
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<span lang="ES">Pass the thread from the neddle on the left side of the active thread (the ball) and bring the needle under the active thread as shown in the picture. Pick the needle, make the flip. </span></div>
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<span lang="ES"> <b>Second movement / second hs</b></span></div>
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<span lang="ES">Bring the needle from right to the left, pass it under the active thread. Make the flip. </span></div>
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<span lang="ES">Congratulations: you just made a ds using a needle as a shuttle. </span></div>
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<span lang="ES">Again: I did not invented it. I guess it was already done before me. </span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Phn5MiUG7O8/VexLNqqFzoI/AAAAAAAABXQ/6Lg_V4wXkxc/s1600/second%2Bbead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Phn5MiUG7O8/VexLNqqFzoI/AAAAAAAABXQ/6Lg_V4wXkxc/s320/second%2Bbead.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="ES"> Easy peasy. I do not give you any ds count for the chain. It depends so much on your thread... My Penny 30 wanted 26 ds to lay flat... </span></div>
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Take 1 bead, place it, continue... </div>
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<span lang="ES"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v74hH5i_Haw/VexLOOPOnnI/AAAAAAAABXE/8DRXQizQC3w/s1600/second%2Bchain%2Bstart..jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v74hH5i_Haw/VexLOOPOnnI/AAAAAAAABXE/8DRXQizQC3w/s320/second%2Bchain%2Bstart..jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="ES"> Have fun. </span></div>
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<span lang="ES"><br /></span></div>
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I hope this is not that difficult. It is actually fun and you will notice how wasy using the needle this way can be. The same movements I use also when I am finger tatting...<br />
Let me know if you do not understand some steps. I will try to answer as soon as possible.<br />
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<br />Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-65017760813751234112015-07-16T06:33:00.000+01:002015-07-16T06:34:11.653+01:00Small earringRemember this one?<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g3Dy_C1qjqo/VFzTjUe8rEI/AAAAAAAABKI/33J8CgWz-9w/s1600/lyla2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="158" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g3Dy_C1qjqo/VFzTjUe8rEI/AAAAAAAABKI/33J8CgWz-9w/s200/lyla2.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://cmhandmade.blogspot.com.es/2014/11/1-shuttle-bracelet-beads-all-around.html" target="_blank">Bracelet</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I played with the idea and the last one I uploaded. The basic idea is the same: 1 shuttle, all the beads strung previously. And with a crochet hook and some decorating beads, this is all you need.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ehWPcnNCtTs/Vac7C7uEEUI/AAAAAAAABVg/HosfNIblGeo/s1600/Graphic1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ehWPcnNCtTs/Vac7C7uEEUI/AAAAAAAABVg/HosfNIblGeo/s200/Graphic1.JPG" width="175" /></a></div>
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Remember the small rings? You take 1 bead in the loop before you start the ring, work the ring and close it. The bead will remain on the core thread, at the base of the ring. If you are needle tatting, just work the ring and before you close it, take 1 bead and then close the ring. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y6O59u-bJQk/Vac9qA_y6nI/AAAAAAAABVs/_aY53-cL3EU/s1600/earring%2Bbeads%2Ball%2Baround.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y6O59u-bJQk/Vac9qA_y6nI/AAAAAAAABVs/_aY53-cL3EU/s200/earring%2Bbeads%2Ball%2Baround.jpg" width="98" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Aas1DEi8InM/Vac67wHnZeI/AAAAAAAABVU/uc6jtegEZPE/s1600/earring%2Bbeads%2Ball%2Baround_ds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Aas1DEi8InM/Vac67wHnZeI/AAAAAAAABVU/uc6jtegEZPE/s200/earring%2Bbeads%2Ball%2Baround_ds.jpg" width="98" /></a></div>
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The left diagramm indicates the order of the work, the right one: the ds. Please note that you can adjust at any moment the double stitches and the small rings according to the thread, beads you use. You will feel it while you work it. </div>
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I used a Brildor PB15 thread, a thin polyester (like an 80 size thread) blended with gold metallic Finca thread. </div>
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1: R: 2 - 14, close, do not turn work. </div>
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2: R: 3 dbp 2 dbp 2 dbp 3 - 3 dbp 2 dbp 2 dbp 3, close, turn work.</div>
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3: R (with 1 bead in the loop): 2 + 4 - 2, close ring, do not turn work. Repeat how many times you want, until you have a chain you like around the larger ring. Keep in mind that you must have space to work the 4th ring underneath the larger ring. In my case: 8 times. After the last small ring: turn work. </div>
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4: R 2 - 6 + 8, close, turn work. </div>
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5: R: 2 + (the the previous ring) 4 - 2, close ring. Make lock join to the picot from the previous small ring. Continue without turning work for as manny small rings as you wish. Last small ring will be a 2 - 6 one (no picot needed anymore). </div>
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Now you can add the desired beads, by sewing them. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1YskQweU9lk/Vac67h7Tw0I/AAAAAAAABVc/hAFrDvOgrDI/s1600/earring%2Bbeads%2Ball%2Baround%2Bbeads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1YskQweU9lk/Vac67h7Tw0I/AAAAAAAABVc/hAFrDvOgrDI/s200/earring%2Bbeads%2Ball%2Baround%2Bbeads.jpg" width="98" /></a></div>
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Small remarks: </div>
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- Do not rush when closing the small rings. It is not always easy to close them all the same. </div>
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- Make the joining picots as small as possible. </div>
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- While sewing the beads, use a fine needle and pass through the beads of the small rings. This will give more stability and stiffness to those chain-like elements. Especially the longer one may need it. Pass through the bead, hide the thread between the ds, pass through the next bead. It takes time, but it is worth to do it. </div>
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Have fun! </div>
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<br />Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-75746464225029769152015-04-11T01:31:00.004+01:002015-04-11T15:52:55.873+01:00Long time not hereI have been absent for too long. I miss my tatting, since I cannot do it like I am used to do it. Lack of time. My tatting is reduced now to 2 to 3 hours. Much to little for all I have in mind to do. A lot of projects wait in the line. A final touch here, a "check this idea" there, At least 3 patterns are on the way. Still.<br />
I finished some of the pieces I started. I will post some of the patterns here, as promissed.<br />
I finished today a bracelet. I will offer the pattern, more the way to do it, it is not difficult.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QrGv0qywyHM/VShlU2hfmlI/AAAAAAAABUQ/IRrql4FgHDs/s1600/bracelet%2Bblack%2B_%2Bsquare%2Belements.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QrGv0qywyHM/VShlU2hfmlI/AAAAAAAABUQ/IRrql4FgHDs/s1600/bracelet%2Bblack%2B_%2Bsquare%2Belements.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
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<b>Central part: separate elements. 1 shuttle only. </b><br />
r: 10 - 10, close, do not turn.<br />
R: 10 + 8 - 8 - 10, close, do not turn.<br />
r: 10 + 10, close, do not turn.<br />
Rr: 10 + 10 - 10.<br />
Repeat until you have a square element done.<br />
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Work so many of those elements until you get the desired length. 6 of them in my case.<br />
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<b>Outer round.</b> <b>1 shuttle and 1 ball. </b><br />
Prepare the shuttle with the necessary seed beads for the rings. As you can see, 8 seed beads between 2 of the squared motifs. All those get on the shuttle. I placed also 16 seed beads on the ball (in this case add 8 extra beads on the shuttle). I wanted to have a double chain o the ends, better finish for adding the clasps.<br />
Start from the point indicated in the image.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XFvLS_c8RPI/VShoSTd7L9I/AAAAAAAABUc/umgKJPZez5o/s1600/work.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XFvLS_c8RPI/VShoSTd7L9I/AAAAAAAABUc/umgKJPZez5o/s1600/work.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
R( with 4 seed beads in the loop): 15 + 10 bp 5, close, do not turn work.<br />
R: 5 + (separating the beads1 down, 3 up) 10 + (to the next element) 15, close, turn work.<br />
Chain: 20. lock join to the next element.<br />
Chain: 20 snug, turn work.<br />
Repeat until you reach the end of the elements.<br />
Have a look of the finished bracelet:<br />
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We work now the ending. After you have worked the 20 ds, make lock join.<br />
Work chain: 25, make lock join. Do not turn work.<br />
Work chain (with 4 beads ready): 3 bp (1 from hand, 1 from shuttle) 3 bp 3 bp 3 bp 3 snug, lock join to the next joining point of the element.<br />
Work chain: 25, lock join to the picot from the other side.<br />
Continue working the other side of the outer round.<br />
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The rest is up to you.<br />
Feel free to change the ds for the outer round. My bracelet gos a nice, concave (or convexe) shape. And because of the Penny 30, the lace is fine and very stiff.<br />
Ennoying fact: so many ends to hide!!! You can, of course, use the magic trick, but since you will want maybe to place a bead in the middle of the elements, better not. Personal choice, in fact.<br />
Have fun tatting.<br />
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<br />Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com47tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-6612030862660980612015-01-29T15:49:00.000+00:002015-01-29T15:49:45.424+00:00A matter of sharingInternet is a jungle with own rules. Sometimes this is depository of a huge amount of information. 80% of the users use it to find relevant information for them. Some others use it also to exchange information. We all searched for something, we found the info, we used it, moved on. Only later comes the habit to apreciate the source of information we found/received. And very late, sometimes too late or never, comes the good habit to organize this information, to put some order in this search quest.<br />
I am new in this world of the crafters. I tat only since 2 years. I learned alone, with my nose glued on the screen, I swalowed my frustration in front of the monitor and continued to search for help. Yes. I used Internet for this. I have been in all the places, learned from all what I could. And I am thankful for what I found and for the help I got. I grew up, learning from a lot of good tatters. <br />
Now I can help a bit the others sometimes. I share what I know always when this is necessary. And SHARING is actually the keyword.<br />
I am educated never to touch something which does not belong to me. This is called robery in my country. I learned that it is true that my freedom stops when the freedom of the other ones is menaced by my acts. As a philologist I learned that, when you use the ideas of someone else, you MUST quote, otherwise your entire work is called plagiarism. Another word for robery. The intelectual level. Cruelly punished. There is no glory coming by imitating.<br />
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Now comes the "sharing" principle. I can share or offer something what I possess, something which is mine. I cannot just come into your house, pick up something I like and then offer it to my best friend, only because I want to be nice and to keep this good friend. Is it a good friend this one asking me to steal for him/her? an other issue here. Only because we interract through bits ans bytes does not make us less real.<br />
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Ask anyone and they would say the same: Me, steal? Never.<br />
Why this answer comes so quickly for a physical object and not for an idea, it beats me. Maybe only because the first one is associated with police and trials? The fear of getting punished is bigger?<br />
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Please, when you "share" a pattern please reflect: is it really sharing? Does it belong to you?<br />
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When you "share" a document, a scanned book, take a second or two and think: does it harm someones rights?<br />
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When you "share" your knowledge and copy a pattern from a picture and then "share" the picture with the instructions to work it, step back: is this sharing?<br />
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Pinterest, Facebook, Instagram, you name them, are full of images. Mostly are there illegal: not the author placed them there. Please, do not keep this bad habit alive. Some of the designers/photographers try to make a living from their skills. "Sharing" their work kills their chances to succeed.<br />
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Don't hide behind "I did not know", "I am new", "I just found it"... it is lame. Ignorance is never an excuse. When the picture has a watermark, a name on it, a blog, just follow, take your time and follow the source and contact the author. So simple.<br />
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When you notice that a picture is scanned (one can see this easily), that it is part of a book (yes, the page numbers are always a good sign), do not re-pin or re-share it. You become accomplice.<br />
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I did the same, I have a Pinterest account too. I stopped using it. I would not just delete the collections I have there and I must take my time to remove all the pages I know they should not be there. But I do not have the time yet. I just use the "Ideas to tat" collection. <br />
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Again sharing. I share in this blog what I know. I share patterns and I always answer any question. It might be that I want I keep some of my ideas for my own use, they will become patterns to sell. My right.Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-38839478932478924352015-01-20T18:16:00.002+00:002015-01-20T18:16:56.559+00:00Beads and toolsThis entry will not be so impressive, but it might be helpful.<br />
It is about beads tatted withing the lace and the tools you need. For the ones already familiar with the tatting with beads, sorry, no new territory. But, if you have some more hints, please share them with the newbies.<br />
These would be beads you might consider to tat at the same time as the lace. Again, sky is the limit, it is just to get an idea.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TRd_TsK_zjs/VL6TtxAfO5I/AAAAAAAABSc/rhHnhB_dAFs/s1600/beads_tat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TRd_TsK_zjs/VL6TtxAfO5I/AAAAAAAABSc/rhHnhB_dAFs/s1600/beads_tat.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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No, no bead in the middle of a ring, no big bead tatted in Ankars. Except the ones used already as a joining element. But it is safer te work the elements separatelly and to join them while decorating the foundation than hanging a heavy bead. Ankars tatting is about beauty, perfection as it can be and resistance at the same time, the tatting skills stay more with the technique to create a perfect base for the beads than to incorporate the beads into the lace.<br />
Recommendation: the smaller the beads the better. Preferably: even beads, especially when included on the core thread. This is changing the proportion little by little. For 3 rocailles 11.0 you will change the dimension of a ring by 3 mm. Funny. This brings us always some frustration while adapting an existing pattern.<br />
Small bead = tiny hole. A truism which can really hurt. 11.0 Miuki has a hole of 0,8 mm, A 15.0 has a 0,7 mm hole. This is huge! And this can create problems to work with the beads, to string them on the thread. Not to speak about the choice of the thread.<br />
Normally, I use what you can see here. Forgot the place a paperclip. Important that one too.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EcT_0O8PDqE/VL6T0DGzWcI/AAAAAAAABS8/x7XcPgs3LLg/s1600/tools.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EcT_0O8PDqE/VL6T0DGzWcI/AAAAAAAABS8/x7XcPgs3LLg/s1600/tools.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<b>Beading needles.</b> Not only to sew the beads on the lace, but also to string the beads. And yes, a 10 size beading needle can be used with a thread similar to the Lizbeth 40. I did it. Never forget when choosing the beads and the thread: when you use a needle, a beating tool, a threader, you will always have a strand of 2 when you string your beads.<br />
How to skip it: apply glue to harden the end of thread and try to use it. Not my favorite choice, though.<br />
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<b>My "tool"</b>. Done from broken guitar string. My son knows already: I receive all his broken strings.<br />
I prefer an open end to the ready-to-buy variant. A lot more versatile.<br />
How to make it? Take some 10 cm of a tiny wire, (from electrical cable, from craft copper wire, the 0,3 is perfect, a fishing wire), fold it 2. Done. <br />
For what it serves? To string the beads, to place the beads on the picots, to make difficult joins, to place beads/elements the fine crochet hook cannot place.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F3WKezrj7u0/VL6TyXxz8nI/AAAAAAAABSs/R__EVJQRLhk/s1600/tool%2Bdone.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F3WKezrj7u0/VL6TyXxz8nI/AAAAAAAABSs/R__EVJQRLhk/s1600/tool%2Bdone.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-96vsKvY2Uk8/VL6TxmIyorI/AAAAAAAABSk/IxhTyYlx67o/s1600/20150120_162925.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-96vsKvY2Uk8/VL6TxmIyorI/AAAAAAAABSk/IxhTyYlx67o/s1600/20150120_162925.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a> </div>
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<b>Crochet hook.</b> We know it. The finer, the better.<br />
Perfect tool to string individual beads, to place beads on the picots.<br />
Why finer? Not only because the holes are under 1 mm but also because sometimes the joins can be done in between the beads:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VRS7aVYLqi8/VL6Zw4DBSgI/AAAAAAAABTo/K9R7ea2wYjw/s1600/crochet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VRS7aVYLqi8/VL6Zw4DBSgI/AAAAAAAABTo/K9R7ea2wYjw/s1600/crochet.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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In these cases I tend to use my tool. </div>
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Limits: cases like this one: </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yD9txKUyzm4/VL6ZvK4hqLI/AAAAAAAABTU/bLnKPWHbaVw/s1600/bead3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yD9txKUyzm4/VL6ZvK4hqLI/AAAAAAAABTU/bLnKPWHbaVw/s1600/bead3.jpg" height="320" width="265" /></a></div>
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So you turn to the cheap wire tool: place it on the thread, place the bead, fix the paper clip.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KQN5Guq7gZQ/VL6ZuOhvuyI/AAAAAAAABTM/73H-ZkBjlhU/s1600/bead2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KQN5Guq7gZQ/VL6ZuOhvuyI/AAAAAAAABTM/73H-ZkBjlhU/s1600/bead2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a> </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4y88shBKZYk/VL6ZwrY3j3I/AAAAAAAABTk/Ocy_8Jwqjzw/s1600/bead1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4y88shBKZYk/VL6ZwrY3j3I/AAAAAAAABTk/Ocy_8Jwqjzw/s1600/bead1.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a> </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pQgSc7DTEH4/VL6ZwNyQMZI/AAAAAAAABTc/pEtWlOthnHI/s1600/bead4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pQgSc7DTEH4/VL6ZwNyQMZI/AAAAAAAABTc/pEtWlOthnHI/s1600/bead4.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
The smart ones will make very long (gauged) picots. Viable solution when you work with regular beads. What about the irregular beads?<br />
See the last picture? it is what comes next int he blog: placing the seed beads and using them not only as decorative elements.<br />
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<br />Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-66638531432640345472015-01-13T11:50:00.000+00:002015-01-13T13:07:20.116+00:00Simple ROR earringsThose ones were waiting to get a how to tat history... And since I would not like to tempt some tatters to try to estimate, I just rushed a bit with the pattern. Which I promissed anyway.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y0ZZswy78tc/VLT75rcrTeI/AAAAAAAABSM/BTzX132iXIE/s1600/earring%2Bpic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y0ZZswy78tc/VLT75rcrTeI/AAAAAAAABSM/BTzX132iXIE/s1600/earring%2Bpic.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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Skills required: shuttle tatting, tatting with beads, up and down joins. </div>
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Small reminder for the ones liking a neat finish, no twisted picots. Never fight against the thread. This always can punish sooner or later. Better learn the right technique than making compromises to the quality of your lace. Not even when worked "for fun". Yes, I've been told this one too: "We do not work at an academic level, just for fun."</div>
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<b>· </b>Up join - marked with <b>+</b> in the pattern (the regular one, the one we learn at the beginning) will make that the ring you are working lay under the rings already worked. Reason: the thread you pull from the left hand to make the joining loop brings the worked ds from underneath the work. You will pass the shuttle also from down towards up. </div>
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<b>· </b>Down join - marked with <b>*</b> in the written pattern: when you pull the thread to make the join, the worked ds are on top of the previous rings anyway and the shuttle passes from left to right ON TOP of the work, so this ring will remain on top. </div>
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That simple. </div>
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There you go for the pattern. </div>
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1 shuttle project. </div>
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Material needed: thread of your choice (my Penny 30 gave me a 2,5 cm long earring), 28 seed beads (29 for the daring variant, with the tatted in crystal). Beads of your choice for the finish. </div>
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Shuttle, beading threader, fine crochet hook, scrissors, needle (for the finish). Magic thread trick is beautiful, but maybe you would like to place 1 bead and then hide the thread. </div>
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All the picots will be very small picots.</div>
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Basic pattern: </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4hDDVKn_ESA/VLT722ELlJI/AAAAAAAABR0/X6feGJX7np8/s1600/earring%2Bbasic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4hDDVKn_ESA/VLT722ELlJI/AAAAAAAABR0/X6feGJX7np8/s1600/earring%2Bbasic.jpg" height="200" width="155" /></a></div>
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8 rings worked in the given order. </div>
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R1: 5 - 5 - 10, cl, dnt</div>
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R2: 10 + (to R1) 20 - 10, cl, dnt</div>
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R3: 10 + (to R2) 5 - 5, cl, dnt</div>
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R4: 5 + (to R3) 10 - 5, cl, dnt</div>
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R5: 5 + (to R4) 5 - 10, cl, dnt</div>
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R6: 10 + (to R5) 15 - 10, cl, dnt</div>
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R7: 10 * (up join to R6) 5 - 5, cl, dnt</div>
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R8: 5 + 10 + (folded join to R7) 5 cl, cut thread. </div>
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The beaded variant requires the use of the beads. Known already: 3 beads in the loop for the ring, 1 from the shuttle to form this diamond (marked <b>dbp</b> in the pattern). All rings will start with those 3 beads in the left hand, except the ring 6. Feel free to change it if you prefer it. </div>
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String on the shuttle 28 beads. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NORiy9Za9tI/VLT73O9V4wI/AAAAAAAABSA/ahGD41QYw-U/s1600/earring%2Bbeads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NORiy9Za9tI/VLT73O9V4wI/AAAAAAAABSA/ahGD41QYw-U/s1600/earring%2Bbeads.jpg" height="320" width="271" /></a></div>
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R1: 5 - 5 dbd 1 - 11, cl, dnt</div>
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R2: 11 + (to R1) 10 dbp 10 - 11, cl, dnt</div>
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R3: 11 + (to R2) 1 dbp 5 - 5, cl, dnt</div>
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R4: 5 + (to R3) 5 dbp 5 - 5, cl, dnt</div>
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R5: 5 + (to R4) 5 dbp 1 - 11, cl, dnt</div>
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R6: 11 + (to R5) 15 - 11, cl, dnt</div>
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R7: 11 * (up join to R6) 1 dbp 5 - 5, cl, dnt</div>
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R8: 5 + 5 dbp 5 + (folded join to R7) 5 cl, cut thread. </div>
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Now, you are ready to embellish your earring as it pleases you. </div>
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For the daring ones, I tell how I worked my earring. Not a big thing, bit it requires a bit of patience during the work. I like challenges so I tatted in my crystal. I placed all my seed beads on the shuttle and also the crystal blocked with a seed bead, like for the free stamen for the <a href="http://cmhandmade.blogspot.com.es/2014/11/pattern-sakura.html" target="_blank">Sakura </a>patern. </div>
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The beads sequence to fill the shuttle is: 25 seed beads, this crystal with the seed bead blocker, 3 seed beads. </div>
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Start from the ring 2 with the 3 seed beads and the crystal + blocker in the loop. When the ring will be closed, the cristal will remain trapped at the base of the ring. Then you must tat the ring 3... In this case you should not have any folded join. Only take care about the placement of the layered rings. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mGYXHbex5OY/VLT73Gt_YKI/AAAAAAAABR4/IUVytPiQm3o/s1600/earring%2Bbeads%2Ball.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mGYXHbex5OY/VLT73Gt_YKI/AAAAAAAABR4/IUVytPiQm3o/s1600/earring%2Bbeads%2Ball.jpg" height="320" width="271" /></a></div>
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Have fun. For any questions I am always around. </div>
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Happy tatting. </div>
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Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com35tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-34552906435394408452014-12-16T17:03:00.005+00:002017-05-21T09:58:36.316+01:00Tatting and cabochonsIn the Ankars tehnique among a lot of other new elements, apears the use of a cab worked in lace. It does not matter what kind, what form, as long as it fits. Matter of taste too.<br />
The simpliest manner to do it is to tat a front element, with a nice center, that a back side and capture the cab /stone in between by sewing those 2 layers together or joining them by another round of tatting.<br />
The method I found in a Russian forum (the author was Nina Prokoviewich but I think the method belong to Ekaterina Stepnaya) is, in my eyes nicer.<br />
Irina Astratenko has also another method: 1 shuttle, alternating rings with seed beads in between. (work ring, turn work, place bead, work ring, turn, place bead, work ring, join... )<br />
The beads are optional.<br />
To understand the principle: you will tat both sides at the same time, by making some sort of frame.<br />
You need 2 shuttles, because you will want that the threads you use for the rings end at the same point, to you can start the chain. Of course, you can use a shuttle and a ball, but you will need to turn and flip work.<br />
You can choose any type of cabochon. My first try was a rivoli, 5 mm thick. I hesitates a lot to publish this method because I was thinking I am infringing the rights of <a href="https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/p417x417/546700_381541451881918_697322838_n.jpg?oh=422036554ef0432fb1850b3f3dc7dd7e&oe=550EBD03&__gda__=1425791068_3366836457fc90618c385ea06751fb07" target="_blank">Marie McCurry</a>, but I am not. By the way: you should pay a visit to her page. Lots of goodies.<br />
So there you go.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LR_I6VZGA_Y/VJBd9WRs_jI/AAAAAAAABRk/3pcyrfPU5KM/s1600/cabochon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LR_I6VZGA_Y/VJBd9WRs_jI/AAAAAAAABRk/3pcyrfPU5KM/s1600/cabochon.jpg" width="150" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cZ2guesq9F0/VJBd8eOt5EI/AAAAAAAABRc/Ia5_Jb6Y89g/s1600/cabochon%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cZ2guesq9F0/VJBd8eOt5EI/AAAAAAAABRc/Ia5_Jb6Y89g/s1600/cabochon%2B1.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">The last piece was a mother of pearl pendant: </span></div>
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<a href="https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10846512_806340242742236_4262520910047609873_n.jpg?oh=2d703aae630c9a6882dfcc8ccbcca868&oe=553E96D7&__gda__=1430627339_d63b939278209bf0d556b676c52a1d42" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10846512_806340242742236_4262520910047609873_n.jpg?oh=2d703aae630c9a6882dfcc8ccbcca868&oe=553E96D7&__gda__=1430627339_d63b939278209bf0d556b676c52a1d42" width="320" /></a></div>
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Needed material:</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iXEtoJho2O0/VJBc1BhBPiI/AAAAAAAABQs/n9bAkfSEJr8/s1600/material.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iXEtoJho2O0/VJBc1BhBPiI/AAAAAAAABQs/n9bAkfSEJr8/s1600/material.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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You start by planning your tatting by copying the shape of your cab and then drawing. Use axes, just draw, imagine how it would be. 1:1 scale is very good. Working with cabochons and designing is not for beginers, you need to know your thread, in order to estimate the ds and to place the joins. Gauge your thread by making rings and chains increasing the ds systematicly. It can help you to plan your tatting. Like this you will have more or less your rough pattern. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y9FSuySBs9c/VJBc3Pc5QSI/AAAAAAAABQ8/i6cNhR2zzw8/s1600/plan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y9FSuySBs9c/VJBc3Pc5QSI/AAAAAAAABQ8/i6cNhR2zzw8/s1600/plan.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I used for my test the Penny 30. All my rings were 8 - 8 - 8, all my chains were 8 bdp 8 (bdp: beaded diamond picot). </div>
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I choose the pink shuttle thread to work the upper rings and the blue shuttle to work the lower ones. The chains: pink shuttle thread was the core thread. Like this I avoided the thread to make unwanted switches. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mqmbhFJIvls/VJBc6y1a3MI/AAAAAAAABRU/fCKUFtSslC8/s1600/start%2Bthreads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mqmbhFJIvls/VJBc6y1a3MI/AAAAAAAABRU/fCKUFtSslC8/s1600/start%2Bthreads.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I always start like this. Never a knot. I hide the ends with the first ds. </div>
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Work the first ring with the pink shuttle, do not turn. Take the blue shuttle and work very close the lower ring. Close and turn work. Hold both rings tight and start chain. </div>
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Snug the chain and prepare to work the next set of 2 rings. You will join the upper rings to form 1 round and the lower ones the same. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1rQKi0YYSKc/VJBc46o5AyI/AAAAAAAABRE/qzhk0LXQA1w/s1600/ring%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1rQKi0YYSKc/VJBc46o5AyI/AAAAAAAABRE/qzhk0LXQA1w/s1600/ring%2B2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fXJyqTGrMqY/VJBcyOoUxvI/AAAAAAAABQg/I5qePK7w4tw/s1600/2%2Brings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fXJyqTGrMqY/VJBcyOoUxvI/AAAAAAAABQg/I5qePK7w4tw/s1600/2%2Brings.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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You will notice soon that they for the cage for the cab. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xlI0bMEMyKY/VJBc0vca7HI/AAAAAAAABQo/hOuAp-QMe-c/s1600/cab%2Bin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xlI0bMEMyKY/VJBc0vca7HI/AAAAAAAABQo/hOuAp-QMe-c/s1600/cab%2Bin.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Continue until you will consider necessary for your stone. Make tests from time to time, to estimate how much you need to work. It is better to have it tighter, like this the lace will hold the stone very well in place. You will finish every round normally. </div>
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You will close first the upper rings. Then you will place your cabochon, hold it in place and work the lower ring, make the last joins and you will see already the stone caged in your lace. Pretty uncomfortable this last ring, but possible. Tat the last chain to finish your work. </div>
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Fot the white and lila piece, I worked an extra round. </div>
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I worked another piece with some beads. Not necessarily my thing, but I can show you how you can play after: </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WN7BwncJ3gc/VJBcxIEBe-I/AAAAAAAABQc/-RzaVi0U3do/s1600/cab%2Bblack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WN7BwncJ3gc/VJBcxIEBe-I/AAAAAAAABQc/-RzaVi0U3do/s1600/cab%2Bblack.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B6UFD3DOcuo/VJBc5taCzvI/AAAAAAAABRI/YTfFAprWUqA/s1600/sew%2Bbeads%2Bin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B6UFD3DOcuo/VJBc5taCzvI/AAAAAAAABRI/YTfFAprWUqA/s1600/sew%2Bbeads%2Bin.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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You can decorate this base as you like. </div>
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I would suggest you to start with a round piece and no beads (except the outer round). </div>
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Pay attention when you start any ring. The smallest bare thread between the 2 rings can spoil a lot from your work. </div>
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For a thicher cabochon, just make bigger rings. But still do not plan more ds between the joins because they will tend to go up, and not lay on the stone. </div>
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Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-62910637020280953732014-12-02T13:17:00.000+00:002014-12-02T17:27:37.349+00:00Understanding Ankars<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
An Ankars piece is easy to recognize. I just found this piece <a href="http://frivolite-ankars.blogspot.com.es/2010/11/blog-post_20.html" target="_blank">here </a>(you can recall it for sure) and I try to explain some of the distinctive elements. I do not touch the thread used. Only the construction elements or the foundation and the beads. </div>
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<b>1. The stacked rings. </b></div>
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They are caracteristic for Rina Stepnaya's Ankars orientation. </div>
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There are 2 big groups of this element "ring on ring" : the ROR simple and complexe ones. </div>
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Golden rule: rings must very well closed, snug to get the stiffness necessary, make sure that the front side and back side are "clean", back side must be as beautiful and neat as the front side. You must develop your way to close these rings. If they are not correctly and completely closed, you will have important issues for the final aspect and the balance of those stacked rings. One reason more to avoid coton, even the best one. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g1vdQK7eQEI/VH21pNkECKI/AAAAAAAABPU/_u_dszO7B2U/s1600/ring%2Bsimple%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g1vdQK7eQEI/VH21pNkECKI/AAAAAAAABPU/_u_dszO7B2U/s1600/ring%2Bsimple%2B1.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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There is no order how you work them. You can start from the larger ring, work all the joining picots and then the smaller rings, starting from the larger one to the smaller one, joining through the previous ring. No bare thread left between the rings, otherwise they will not pile up nicely. </div>
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In noticed that up join and down join tend to place the rings under or on top of the base ring. For sure, this allows you to make clean joins, no twist for the thread. </div>
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As you notice, a good planing is necessary. </div>
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More about this: <a href="http://www.georgiaseitz.com/2013/ankars/newror_tutorial.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.georgiaseitz.com/2013/ankars/newror_tutorial.pdf. </a></div>
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<b>2. Sewed beads</b></div>
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There is no restriction in using the beads. 1 rule though: best quality beads. The regular shaped ones are kind to you and to your patterns. They are easy to incorporate. But don't stay away from the baroque beads. They bring personality and charm to the pieces. </div>
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Crystals of glass beads: fire treaded ones, to avoid that the thread is cut. </div>
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Easy test for the quality: give them a bath with concentrated soap. If after some hours they did not loose the colour, you can use them. But, again, for some beads you should not jump on the brand new ones... the older ones are sometimes better. </div>
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How to plan them? </div>
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a) you know your thread, and you adapt your pattern to your beads. </div>
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b) you tat the foundation and then search the beads. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BShIBBYwftw/VH23owhlt3I/AAAAAAAABPo/ZR3cYkKI6rU/s1600/_seed_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BShIBBYwftw/VH23owhlt3I/AAAAAAAABPo/ZR3cYkKI6rU/s1600/_seed_.jpg" height="162" width="320" /></a></div>
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Seed beads should be very regular. You can use them in the lace (godo planning required), sew them, use them as "stoppers" of "buffers" for bigger beads. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9J0SnEtOVGA/VH23pvvJstI/AAAAAAAABPw/isjliDXdywc/s1600/fire-polished-beads_07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9J0SnEtOVGA/VH23pvvJstI/AAAAAAAABPw/isjliDXdywc/s1600/fire-polished-beads_07.jpg" height="133" width="200" /></a></div>
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Fire treated. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HMeYuYyXC9E/VH23oNN4sgI/AAAAAAAABPg/ms1IWdeMEIo/s1600/pearl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HMeYuYyXC9E/VH23oNN4sgI/AAAAAAAABPg/ms1IWdeMEIo/s1600/pearl.jpg" height="132" width="200" /></a></div>
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No words. But make sure they are the good type. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XlZp7KbrSu4/VH23qSBg6nI/AAAAAAAABQA/AGdd0ucKOyo/s1600/seed-beads-bugles-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XlZp7KbrSu4/VH23qSBg6nI/AAAAAAAABQA/AGdd0ucKOyo/s1600/seed-beads-bugles-1.jpg" height="110" width="200" /></a></div>
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Yup, they are welcome. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ApsEqU7ZlGE/VH23qXd4p7I/AAAAAAAABP0/3Op2Q6sbVhY/s1600/semiprecious.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ApsEqU7ZlGE/VH23qXd4p7I/AAAAAAAABP0/3Op2Q6sbVhY/s1600/semiprecious.jpg" height="133" width="200" /></a></div>
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Check the quality. </div>
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Sky is actually the limit. </div>
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<b>3. Beading skills</b> are welcome in Ankars. </div>
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<b>4. The seed beads are often tatted in.</b> There are a lot of possibilities, this required a full class. There are more ways to use them than picots or beads on core thread. You would be surprised. </div>
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<b>5. </b>Often there is a central piece, a focus one. In this necklace it is this <b>cabochon</b>. There are at least 4 ways to do it. Again, a blog entry would be necessary. Trust me, it is not the known way of tat an edging for the front, tat a flower for the back and we put them together with some beads. </div>
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During the class I will give details about all these elements. </div>
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Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-66849249016334572852014-11-29T14:37:00.000+00:002014-11-29T17:48:50.894+00:00Ankars tatting rules for a simple patternPlease, do not make the mistake to believe Ankars means stacked rings, 3D tatting and multilayered pieces.<br />
This technique uses common tatting patterns but there are some details which make from a common pattern an Ankars piece.<br />
- work it with shiny, resistent, polyester thread (Lavsan, Isacord, Brildor, any machine embroidery brand you find as long as it is resistent, shiny, not elastic).<br />
- tat the ds according to the Ankars requierments: right hand completelly still, no moving, thread tight, form the knot with the left hand. This is Rina Stepnaya's way of tatting for Ankars. This makes a stiff lace. The video of Karen Cabrera shows it perfectly. Remember it looks like regular tatting, but this makes the difference:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/QwUPLYcEAak?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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- combine 3 or 4 strands, one of them can be easily from a different colour or metallic.<br />
- choose good quality beads, even ones (Toho, Miuki, quality ones).<br />
- plan your beads to tat it the lace with extreme care.<br />
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I will show you how a simple tatting element can become Ankars. I admit, not the spectacular one, but it is something different than tatting with beads. And no, beanile is not Ankars, Nina Libin is clear about this one.<br />
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The simpliest rosette ever. Tatted with polyester thread (Penny 30), really stiff. All gold Toho rocailles 11.0 are tatted in. The white and the red ones are sewed. This is one of the ways used in Ankars. </div>
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You need to tat the rosette: </div>
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12 x 4 = 48 beads for the rings (they will be on the shuttle). </div>
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6 beads on the ball. </div>
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To finish it: beading needle required 6 Toho white, 6 Toho red, 11.0 size. And 1 finishing crystal (if you wish). </div>
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All rings: 10 - 5 - 5 - 10. </div>
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All chains: 25. </div>
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All joins are done between the beads. </div>
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R1: take 11 beads in the loop. 10 ds, bring from the loop 4 beads, 5 ds , bring 3 beads from the hand, 1 from the shuttle, 5 ds, bring the last 4 beads from the loop, 10 ds, close ring, turn work. </div>
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Remark: when you make those 4 beads picots, do not make them too tight. You will want to have some manoeuvre space when you make the join. </div>
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Chain 1: bring 1 bead from the ball, hold it tight, start chain. 25 ds, snug as tight as you can (too bad for the aspect if you work with coton), turn work. </div>
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R2: take 7 beads in the loop. 10 ds, join between the beads, 5 ds, make the diamond beaded picot, 5 ds, bring the 4 beads from the loop, 10 ds, close ring, turn. </div>
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Repeat until you finish the flower. </div>
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The last join is a bit difficult, make sure you make it between the right beads. </div>
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You will notice that the flower is not stable in the center. </div>
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You just come with the beading needle and wave in the beads you kept for finishing. My piece gained in stability after sewing the red ones. The white I added in fact just to bring some contrast. </div>
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I played with one of those beaded centers by adding a 4 hole pearl and giving some volume to the piece. </div>
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Do not be afraid of experimenting. But if you want to make an Ankars piece, just respect the Ankars basic rules. This way of making the ds will improve your tatting too, since this movement forces the thread to wrap better around the core thread. As for the beads, unleash your imagination, sky is the limit! There is actually no Ankars pattern... the originality comes from the way the elements are combined, the beads scheme and the colour scheme. </div>
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Have fun and happy tatting. </div>
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<br />Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-51366780096416464852014-11-26T21:35:00.000+00:002014-11-26T21:35:10.560+00:00Ribbon flowersThis is for you. The solution I found for a tatting riddle.<br />
There are more of them, for sure. I mentally tatted 3 of them, I tested only one.<br />
There you go.<br />
All you need: 2 shuttles, one filled with ribbon, the other one with thread, crochet hook. Scissors. Forgot about them.<br />
I will not make any pattern I will just "show the way" how to do it. The rest is up to you to adjust.<br />
I worked with organza 0,5 mm wideribbon and 20 Penny polyester thread.<br />
Why organza? because it has a fine texture. Any other ribbon for embroidery would do it.<br />
Make a gauge for the ribbon. I made mine of 1 cm.<br />
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You will make only chains. </div>
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Take the gauge and make witht he ribbon the inner petal. Roll right 1 or 2 times the thread at the base of this petal. Remove the gauge, take the shuttle with the organza thread and start tatting the chain. Careful not to diform the measured ribbon. And I strongly advice you to snug in time. You cannot tighten this chain after some ds. </div>
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When you reach the upper part of the inner petal, you make a Catherine Wheel join, so the organza ribbon remains a continous thread trapped in the join. </div>
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Finish the chain. </div>
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You will join the 2 sides of this chain to form the ring with the thread from the roll part you did when you started the petal. secure this join and then make a slt with the ribbon. Start over. </div>
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Hope it helps. It is not so wasy to get it nice from the first try, but it works! Have fun. </div>
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<br />Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-29916599371476121232014-11-18T16:43:00.000+00:002014-11-18T16:43:26.680+00:00Pattern SakuraFor a tatting exhibition in Japan, organized by the Romanian Embassy in Tokio, I made a hair comb using the symbol of the Sakura.<br />
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The pattern is, again, not the important element here, but the technique, the way I made those little beads to make the floating stamen.</div>
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In order to do this you need to prepare your beads, a beading needle or simply something to allow you to pass a second time through the beads. I use just my guitar string, I think you saw it in action several times. </div>
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Material needed: seed beads of your choice, stringing tool (dental floss, beading needle, your choice), 5 paper clips. </div>
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1 Shuttle and ball (CTM). </div>
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Technical difficulties: none! Just a nice mock picot and lock joins. Manipulating the beads and making clean lock joins is task enough. </div>
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The Sakura has 5 petals, sou you will need to string 10 stamen on the shuttle and keep aside the beads for 5 others which you will string while you work. </div>
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Preparing the beads: </div>
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<o:p> Before filling the shuttle, prepare the stamen as follows: </o:p></div>
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<o:p>string the beads for 1 stamen. </o:p></div>
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<o:p> pass the beading needle through the beads except the last one. </o:p></div>
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<o:p> Snug. Done. Prepare to make the next 10 ones. </o:p></div>
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Fill the shuttle with these stamen on. Group them by 2, leave some space in between them so you can use them when you need it and still have thread to work the needed ds. Do not cut the thread. </div>
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The central stamen will be a long beaded picot secured with paper clip, so make sure you have all the material ready. </div>
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Start ring with all the stamen in the loop.</div>
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Working sequence: repeat 5 times: 3 ds stamen 1 ds beaded picot with paper clip 1ds stamen 3 ds picot. </div>
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The central part is done, you have all the elements ready. </div>
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Note: </div>
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· Patience is needed to manipulate those beads (stamen), but it is easy: just take the upper one and move it... </div>
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· Try to avoid beads with cutting edges. </div>
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Next step: all chains and lock joins. I used sequences of 15 ds, but please, adjust them to fit your needs. I choose not to make any join between the chain, I like the way the petals just superpose. You can use the Catherine Wheel join, but I prefered to interrupt the core thread, to have a nice angle. </div>
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In the picture of the comb, you have 3 different ways to use those stamen. </div>
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Left one: long beaded picot. Simple. </div>
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Middle: you have now already the directions. </div>
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Right: 1 stamen used as a bead at the base of the ring. It is working and the beauty is that it can be done not to lay flat. </div>
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Hope this helps. </div>
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Have fun tatting. </div>
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Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-80544915332288619632014-11-09T12:05:00.002+00:002014-11-09T12:05:16.608+00:00Tattings versatilityThis what I like in tatting. This versatility. If one dares, of course. And this is what I always try to tell to anyone asking for hints: dare to be original, change a colour, do different combinations. Alter a bit. You will may not change to too much to be entitled to tell: "This is my pattern", but this little piece will have your signature. And will make you proud.<br />
I revisited this pattern, from the <a href="http://cmhandmade.blogspot.com.es/2014/10/tatted-stud-earrings-and-ring.html" target="_blank">stud earrings</a>:<br />
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And I tried some finishing ideas.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yy706uy6hrk/VF9Vdog6zII/AAAAAAAABKc/lp8tcYlEATc/s1600/Lyla.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yy706uy6hrk/VF9Vdog6zII/AAAAAAAABKc/lp8tcYlEATc/s1600/Lyla.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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If is absolutelly the same pattern, the same elements used. Except the 6 agat beads (2 mm), added to the inner element (sewed in). </div>
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Also same one. This time I sewed the coral beads and the Toho 15.0 rocailles. And yes, you must sew the inner beads, there no way you can properly work the rings and add the beads as they are added.</div>
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By far, may favourite is this one: </div>
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Same basic pattern. Changed from 4 beads to 3 beads in between rings. This does not make it a new pattern. I added the outer chains, like for the<a href="http://cmhandmade.blogspot.com.es/2013/07/pattern-for-beaded-flower.html" target="_blank"> beaded flower</a> here:</div>
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Combining the 2 together, this may be an original? Nope. You can still point to to the originals. So again, no new pattern. But I got out from the boredom of working over and over the same thing. </div>
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The pattern for this one? hard to give it to you. With my Penny 30 and my 11 Toho beads: 7 lj, 6, lj, 7, lj, 7 lj... and so on. Lock join between the beads as you see in the image. </div>
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Just have fun if you dare ;) Just dare!</div>
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Happy tatting. </div>
Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-7967196180490288112014-11-07T19:52:00.000+00:002014-11-07T19:52:06.781+00:001 shuttle bracelet, beads all around. I avoid Pinterest, even though I have an account. I pin in there only in some boards (my ideas to tat and the art board). I do not delete de other ones because this would cause to many broken links...<br />
But this does not mean that I do not spend a good amount of time in front of the PC starring at patterns. I don't know you, but since some time I discovered how clever were the creators of the antique patterns. How they solved some problem, how they invented new methods or techniques. I cannot thank enough Sue for 2 excellent books, both teasing my curiosity.<br />
And this is how I got to this idea: what if I can make a beaded chain with 1 shuttle? And then combine this element with rings. I experimentes with dead ends, (yes, they work with 1 shuttle only), chains in the middle of the work finishing where they want to (encapsulating, padding... you name it). There is nothing a shuttle with thread cannot do. Some solutions are simple, some come from riddles but what would be tatting without a bit of riddles?<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8PLogvCSaM4/VFzTckaaQSI/AAAAAAAABJs/IGXl8PB5fJI/s1600/red.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8PLogvCSaM4/VFzTckaaQSI/AAAAAAAABJs/IGXl8PB5fJI/s1600/red.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></div>
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The first attempt was this one. All rings. No chain at all. </div>
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Pattern? I give it to you just to guide you, but it really depends on your thread and your beads. </div>
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1 shuttle, all beads on the shuttle. Keep your crochet hook handy. </div>
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Start with ring, 1 bead in the loop. </div>
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16ds, bring 1 bead from the shuttle and make a small picot for a future join, 2 - 14. Close ring. The bead from the loop will remain at the base of the ring. </div>
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Turn work. Bring 1 bead from the shuttle, prepare to work the first smal ring: 8-2, close. The bead will be trapped ar the base of the ring. </div>
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Do not turn, bring one more bead, make small ring: 2+6-2, close, do not turn. Repeat this until you have 6 small rings. Make lock join to the picot on top of the bead on the core thread. </div>
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Do not turn work. </div>
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Take 1 bead, start another big ring: 2 + (to the picot from the small ring) 14, bring another bead on the core thread and let the picot for the next join, 16, close, turn work. The bead from the loop remains at the base of the ring. </div>
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Start to work the small rings as the previous ones. </div>
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Not so difficult. </div>
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But I did not like it , the beaded chains did not lay flat on the wrist and since I do not like to stiffen or to block, I changed some things: reduced the beads from 6 to 5 and gave up the beads from the bigger rings. </div>
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Lot better. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2ChlzfUTu_w/VFzTjKZbdYI/AAAAAAAABJ8/tAk0XiLJx4w/s1600/lyla1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2ChlzfUTu_w/VFzTjKZbdYI/AAAAAAAABJ8/tAk0XiLJx4w/s1600/lyla1.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zadiI1xHbm4/VFzTgp4DzyI/AAAAAAAABJ0/oURceHpv_D4/s1600/lyla%2Bbraid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zadiI1xHbm4/VFzTgp4DzyI/AAAAAAAABJ0/oURceHpv_D4/s1600/lyla%2Bbraid.jpg" height="200" width="96" /></a></div>
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I start to like these 1 shuttle patterns. This would be my third no-Ankars 1 shuttle pattern. But I really like the freedom one can have. Just as I said: 1 shuttle, thread, beads, a crochet hook. One of those projects you can tat while waiting for something or in a bus, with no fear for the ball of the second shuttle.<br />
Have fun. Please let me know if I did write something wrong. It always hapen.<br />
<br />Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com33tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-41080631531673209152014-11-01T16:56:00.000+00:002014-11-01T16:56:30.123+00:00Swirly rosetteEmptying a shuttle, some time ago.<br />
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Just tatted to the end, just to see what it gives and to practice the pulled join of Nina Libin, but a lock join actually does the job.<br />
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It is 1 shuttle pattern, 49 beads on the shuttle (in my case!). You must have a sure hand to make a nice lock join, no knot, no bare thread left by mistake.<br />
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All is a base of 6 ds. With this count, some 11.0 Toho rocailles you will have a 7 petals rosette. At least this is what my Penny 30 (like a Lizbeth 40) did.<br />
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There will be no turn. All the beads will remain on the shuttle.<br />
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Symbols used:<br />
- join picot.<br />
+ join<br />
vsp: very small picot<br />
Red beads: you bring them from the shuttle and let a join picot, large enough to allow you to pass the crichet hook to make the join.<br />
Green beads: their number depends on the size of your ring.<br />
Blue beads: just bring them from the shuttle between the petals. In my case (my thread, my beads), 3 were ok. If you use less, you will have more petals, I assume.<br />
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Every R1: 6 - 6 red bead 6 - 6, close, do not turn.<br />
Every R2: 6 + 6 vsp 12, close, do not turn.<br />
Take the beads (marked green), place them bellow, pull the thread through the vsp, make lock join to fix them in place. Bring another bead (marked blue here), and start over.<br />
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For the last R1 there is a small trick to place the last bead on the core thread. Work 6 + 6. Bring the thread to make the join but before you pass the shuttle, bring the bead, keep it in place and finish the join.<br />
The last R2: worked normally, male the lock join and after placing the last blue bead, you cut and hide the end.<br />
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I wish I could give you an exact pattern, ds, exact amount of beads and so on, this would be so elegant! But, in my opinion, it is better to pass you the way, to give you the weapons so you can be independent and, later, to play with this knowledge. This is the reason this kind of patterns, with small technical details, will always end up in the blog.<br />
Have fun with it. I know I will develop it. I already see it as a six point star with a second round. Snowflake anyone?Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-4130735788700257382014-10-28T17:47:00.001+00:002014-10-28T18:59:40.492+00:00Rings'n beadsThread. Not much of it. Some delicas (11, Toho) 1 bit bigger crystal or pearl, any bead you like. 2 shuttles. It is all you need to make this:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ivygNyypul4/VE_RkZIbHoI/AAAAAAAABIo/9NX6sKOaasQ/s1600/earrings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ivygNyypul4/VE_RkZIbHoI/AAAAAAAABIo/9NX6sKOaasQ/s1600/earrings.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Some remarks are necessary. I wil explain the principle, but you must adjust the amount of beads according to your project. See the beads around the white bead? They are 3 or 4 depending on the size of the bead I used. Between and for every ring, you will use 2 beads. So multiply by 2 the split rings you want to make and you will have your seed beads for the split rings. Except 1. That one you will not use. </div>
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Now fill the shuttle with all the seed beads for the split rings, add the seed beads for the pearl, place the pearl then finish with the seed beads for the other side of the pearl. You will use the the continuous thread method, so think about the thread for the second shuttle too. </div>
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You should be ready. </div>
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Main shuttle, the working one, is the one with the seed beads on it. We assume you need 3 seed beads for the pearl. </div>
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Let 3 seed beads + the pearls + 3 seed beads fall on the second shuttle. </div>
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Start R1 with the working shuttle, take 2 seed beads in the loop before starting to tat. </div>
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R1 (SR with 2 seed beads in the loop) 16 / bead from the loop, 16ds, close. </div>
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Work 16 ds. Drop shuttle 1, bring 1 seed bead at the base of the ring. Take shuttle 2, place the group of beads and the pearl in position and start to tat the second half of the split ring: 16 ds (yup, the unflipped ones). Close ring. The remaining seed bead will stay on top of the ring. </div>
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Ring 2: Shuttle 1 (with 2 seed beads in the loop): work 14 ds. Drop shuttle. </div>
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Shuttle 2: bring bead at the base (see the group of 2 seed beads is formed), tat the other 14 ds to finish the split ring. Close. Again the remaining bead stays on top of the ring. </div>
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You just continue. </div>
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For the earrings I used the proportion: R1: 16 ds, R2: 14ds, R3: 12ds, R4: 10ds. I finished with 1 bead in the loop, made a12 ds ring, closed, hid the ends. Added the earring wires. </div>
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For the bracelet, I reduced by 1 ds, to have the lenght I wanted. Before I started, I placed all the seed beads on the shuttle, then passed the thread through the pearl, added again 3 seed beads. Filled the second shuttle with this end (so I have CTM). </div>
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Have fun!</div>
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If you are in the search for fast projects, this can be on your list for sure. </div>
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Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-66203967015427181042014-10-07T13:34:00.000+01:002014-10-07T13:36:10.148+01:00Tatted stud earrings and ringLast week, I think, I posted a pair of earrings and a ring. I just made a test to see how a light grey silver thread will look with some honey gold beads I had (11 Toho Gold Line Jonquille). Simpliest pattern ever, but you know me... simple tatting it is not just simple tatting.<br />
Reasons? More than one.<br />
1. Being a small item, it has to be perfect. This means that is the beads are not even, you do not get the same result.<br />
2. Tattig pattern may be simple, but even knots are required for a small item.<br />
3. Tatting with beads may be mastered, until you must make your joins through the beads. Which is the case here.<br />
4. Folded join through certain beads not for unpatient tatters, at least at the begining. Of course, you can make the alternative join to finish the rosette (the Riego join), but still...<br />
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Remember these babies?<br />
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1 shuttle project, a very fine crochet hook needed. You need a good amount of beads (48 for every rosette + 12 or 24 for each middle element). Pearls of your choice. </div>
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Pattern for the base: </div>
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Told you. Simple. Just careful. </div>
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bp4: beaded picot with 4 beads (from the ones from the loop)</div>
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dp: diamond beaded picot (3 beads from the loop + 1 from the shuttle). </div>
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R1 (with 11 beads on the loop): 8ds, bp4, 4ds, dp, 4ds, bp4, 8ds, close ring, do not turn work. </div>
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R2 (with 7 beads on the loop): 8ds + to R1 (by letting 1 bead between the rings int he lower part) 4ds, dp, 4ds, bp4, 8ds, close ring, do not turn. </div>
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Repeat until you have 5 rings. </div>
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R6: (with 3 beads in the loop): 8 ds + to R5, 4ds, dp, 4ds, join (folded) 8 ds, close ring. </div>
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Work now the central element.</div>
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Start ring with 6 beads in the loop. Work 1 ds make picot with 2 beads (1 from the loop, the other one from the shuttle) 2 ds. repeat until you finish the beads from the loop, finish with 1 ds, close. </div>
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You can also change the amount of ds, depending on your beads. </div>
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For the ring I just made diamond picots instead of these double beaded picots. </div>
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I worked with 30 Penny thread (like a 40 Lizbeth thread) and 11 Toho rocailles. With a different thread size and other beads, the appearance may be different. </div>
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Mount the elements together. If you have stud little pearls, they are perfect. You can even think about working more of these elements to make them as exchangeble sets, why not?</div>
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I hid the head of my stud with another small flower (3-6-3 petal) for a better finish. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OzGGOij6ErU/VDPc_UMPYDI/AAAAAAAABIU/bObX0BVbt6U/s1600/earrings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OzGGOij6ErU/VDPc_UMPYDI/AAAAAAAABIU/bObX0BVbt6U/s1600/earrings.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Have fun!</div>
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<br />Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8122853409884972342.post-33755064265320765002014-09-15T18:58:00.002+01:002014-09-15T18:58:58.817+01:00Stiffener testedI do not like to stiffen my pieces. For more than one reasons. I do not deny that for some objects it is necessary, but they are not in my area of interests... Yet.<br />
I believe that a good pattern and a correct work should give a piece which needs minimal blocking (if not zero). This does not affect the 3D pieces, they simply need to be stiffened.<br />
I work tatted jewelry and I try to make all my pieces that they are stable, lay flat by them selves, no twist. This is maybe the reason I preffer not to make any decorative picots. I do not like to punish the ones wearing my pieces with long instructions how to wash, stiffen the bracelet or the earrings. It is not funny. A short "shower with a gentle soap, arrange the piece to lay flat and let dry it should be enough". And yes, I use a nano-spray, a non allergic one, to avoid that dirt gets into the fibers. It is working, the simple gesture of cleaning the piece with a humid cloth does miracles after this.<br />
I am always asked what I use. Nothing would be the answer.<br />
But since I needed to make some roses, I searched for a solution to stiffen them. No one likes a wedding bouquet with tatted flowers to loose shape and get dull colours is also not something I want to have.<br />
I tested some products.<br />
One captured my attention: the Deco Festiger from Hobby Line. It smells like the white glue, but it has a different behaviour. I aplied it with no dilution, I loved what I got with my polyester thread: stiffness, perfect finish, no change of the colours.<br />
Sue Hanson was wondering how it is working. There you go, Sue. This is just for you.<br />
I used all the fibers I had in the house. I applied the stiffener on the right half only, so you can have the possibility to compare, no matter the angle or the light I have when I take the pictures. Please, do not criticize the pieces, they are tests taken from my flops box.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qqA5MJ6rVJs/VBckRhUfxHI/AAAAAAAABGE/MRsWFpbLtGA/s1600/pieces.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qqA5MJ6rVJs/VBckRhUfxHI/AAAAAAAABGE/MRsWFpbLtGA/s1600/pieces.jpg" height="320" width="279" /></a></div>
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As I said, the stiffener was applied only on the right side of the pieces. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m2HzyRgHVvA/VBckTp_eRDI/AAAAAAAABGQ/i0Rx2UYa6Nw/s1600/process1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m2HzyRgHVvA/VBckTp_eRDI/AAAAAAAABGQ/i0Rx2UYa6Nw/s1600/process1.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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For the pieces with beads, I cleaned immediatelly the beads with a humid clean cloth. I removed also with this cloth the excess. Except one piece, the red and black flower, just to show you the effect. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1Q379eT2xEY/VBckWijBDGI/AAAAAAAABGc/Pb0ZbYr3l_E/s1600/pieces_treated.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1Q379eT2xEY/VBckWijBDGI/AAAAAAAABGc/Pb0ZbYr3l_E/s1600/pieces_treated.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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After 2 hours in the sun (wanted to rush the process), there you have the result: </div>
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The Lizbeth 20 was a bit darker, but it might be not completelly dry. No dull colour. No change at all for the Lizbeth 40. The white thread got a better aspect, without loosing the texture. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OBDhoHCS7EY/VBckXVHFm-I/AAAAAAAABGY/MTZyomL2CGQ/s1600/stiff%2BLizbeth%2B20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OBDhoHCS7EY/VBckXVHFm-I/AAAAAAAABGY/MTZyomL2CGQ/s1600/stiff%2BLizbeth%2B20.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0PESfCsfz4w/VBckaRtgtUI/AAAAAAAABGs/qcDinDYQhw4/s1600/stiff_Lizbeth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0PESfCsfz4w/VBckaRtgtUI/AAAAAAAABGs/qcDinDYQhw4/s1600/stiff_Lizbeth.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T8JZeH6FhAo/VBckD_rYWwI/AAAAAAAABF8/Uk67oEoglYY/s1600/Lizbeth%2B40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T8JZeH6FhAo/VBckD_rYWwI/AAAAAAAABF8/Uk67oEoglYY/s1600/Lizbeth%2B40.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Anchor thread with the beads looks pretty "healthy". And i assure you, the chains do not lay. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gDjZmu9-2cY/VBckYQS2_PI/AAAAAAAABGk/tl9cyyT4oPI/s1600/stiff%2Banchor%2B12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gDjZmu9-2cY/VBckYQS2_PI/AAAAAAAABGk/tl9cyyT4oPI/s1600/stiff%2Banchor%2B12.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Polyester thread is perfect!</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9lMriB6kCh8/VBckbS2sXHI/AAAAAAAABG8/99jQKolMBvk/s1600/stiff_penny20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9lMriB6kCh8/VBckbS2sXHI/AAAAAAAABG8/99jQKolMBvk/s1600/stiff_penny20.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5EsD8uXTNk0/VBckcU2k15I/AAAAAAAABHE/2_OfCP56xmM/s1600/stiff_penny20_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5EsD8uXTNk0/VBckcU2k15I/AAAAAAAABHE/2_OfCP56xmM/s1600/stiff_penny20_1.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
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The Brildor 15, also a polyester thread got a beautiful body. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E1U_hdQAoV0/VBckjP2oCqI/AAAAAAAABHU/Q_yIZobpCPE/s1600/still%2Bbrildor%2B15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E1U_hdQAoV0/VBckjP2oCqI/AAAAAAAABHU/Q_yIZobpCPE/s1600/still%2Bbrildor%2B15.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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No change at all for the metallic thread. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DpVgQZKrmgk/VBcka7hdKFI/AAAAAAAABGw/eTxLOH5EGaM/s1600/stiff%2Bfinca.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DpVgQZKrmgk/VBcka7hdKFI/AAAAAAAABGw/eTxLOH5EGaM/s1600/stiff%2Bfinca.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">And maybe you can see the shine of the film coating the pieces. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S4f_N0pI8FY/VBckmYkXt1I/AAAAAAAABHc/7wRjnOxp5LY/s1600/stiff_penny20_extra%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S4f_N0pI8FY/VBckmYkXt1I/AAAAAAAABHc/7wRjnOxp5LY/s1600/stiff_penny20_extra%2B1.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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They are rigid enough but yet, flexible. </div>
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You can treat them with another coat of finish. I did not have it. For small pieces like earrings and pendants, it is perfect, in my humble opinion. 3D pieces, for sure. </div>
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Hope it helps. </div>
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Have fun. Tatting... </div>
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<br />Corina Meyfeldthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06844434064357347990noreply@blogger.com11